Originally posted by Avey: Just for clarification you leave the strut bolted to the hub on the drivers side, you only want to diconnect the ball joint from the hub.
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Why does it matter if you leave the strut bolted or unbolted? I already removed it from the control arm.
I mentioned this incase you were trying to drop the steering knuckle with the control arm off the strut.
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So just to recap I need to unbolt the A/C dryer, remove the steering boot so I don't rip it, and remove ball joint from the hub and I should be good to go?
The idea was to leave the brakes and everything as one piece and just remove the balljoint and tie rod from the knuckle.
Sounds like your good as long as your pulling out the mounts from the tranny to the subframe as well. The tranny is not super heavy, just unbolt it from the subframe mounts and shove a floor jack under it to support the weight, and when your ready pull it over the subframe by hand, ideally you would want someone to help you lift it over. You might have enough room to work to change the clutch just by supporting the tranny with the floor jack and moving it over a bit, but it might be tight to change the TOB inside the bell housing. You'll save a lot of time by lifting the tranny over the subframe and out of the way, give youself enough room to work. I can't comment on how much of a B*tch it is to remove the shift cables etc, as I have a rod shift tranny but I can tell you it's a nightmare to try and remove the shifter rod from the tranny.
BTW what kind of clutch you putting in?
Last edited by Avey; 05/21/06 09:32 PM.
96 Mystique Black On Tan V6 MTX Port Matched 01 3L, 2.5L Cams, 2.5" Exhaust Optimized y-pipe, SVT clutch, Superchips, 3L split port LIM, SVT UIM, Intake, Mustang 65mm TB, MSDS Headers. Eibach Pro Kit, Torsen Diff., Ford Racing 17" Wheels.
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