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it did start on the first shot when i took it to the hobby shop. And that guy there can get it started within one or two pulls too. But for me...especially after i run it through a tank of gas and it's hot, its a beotch to get it going again. I have to be doing something wrong, cause i took it back to the shop and the guy yanked on it once and it fired right up. Either way, it's annoying me and if i don't get the hang of it, then i'll have to do something else. I wonder if there is anything i can put in the car itself - meh, whatever's cheaper.


1999 Silver Frost SVT #609 of 2760 Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
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Is this your first nitro car? If so, dont get too down on yourself. Nitro engines are about the most finiky engines out there. After you get a bit of tuning experience under your belt, it wont be a problem. There is a learning curve.

I suggest reading tuning articles on the 'net or some R/C mags publish special nitro only issues with beginners info. I suggest reading them. Once you get the hang of how these things like to run its easy.

If you are new and like to experiment, just make sure you have a good visible smoke trail at wide open throttle without it hesitating or stumbling (which is too rich). As long as you have good smoke, you are in no danger of going lean and hurting anything. You may foul a few glow plugs, but that comes with the territory when you are learning.

I wasnt meaning to put you down for using a bump box or electric start, but I think once you get some nitro time under your belt you may find a pull start more convenient. At least I do. If you actually get into road racing you may decide not to use pull start to keep the extra weight off the car, but thats a different story

Have fun!


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Originally posted by TGO:


and would like to say that i now understand how people can spend so much money on this stuff.



Just don't start racing it..

As for the engine, yes Nitro engines are very very touchy.. Especially when used in cars vs. planes and boats where the torque is relatively consistant... Just have a guy at this shop set up the needle valves for you and then it should just be a minor tweaking issue from time to time as long as you keep the air-filter clean.


2000 SVT Black/Tan #1633/2150 (a few mods) Alpine: CDA-9835, MRV-F540, MRD-M550 PG: TANTRUM-X 6.5 COMP all around. Some people wear Superman pajamas. Superman wears Chuck Norris pajamas. CEL currently: Off
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Originally posted by KingpinSVT:
Is this your first nitro car? If so, dont get too down on yourself. Nitro engines are about the most finiky engines out there. After you get a bit of tuning experience under your belt, it wont be a problem. There is a learning curve.





Yes, first car.

I definitely need to learn how to tunr properly...but as of right now the guy at the hobby shop test ran it and gave everything the final ok.

I really think my problem is priming the fuel system before starting. When the motor is cold, its easy to put my finger over the muffler and get some fuel pressure. After it runs through a tank, its harderbecause i have to use a wrag, and even if i try to stall the car with it it takes some time.

I dunno. Hopefully by next week my finger will be healed up and i can try some more.


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I never have that problem. I never have to prime the fuel system. Mine starts up right away.


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Originally posted by GS474:
stock hp is never enough


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B/C I always unplug the fuel line at the tank at the end of the day and run it clean, I have a different approach for priming that always seems to work for me (cause the finger over the muffler sucks, and in tank primers are worthless).

I pull the pressure line off the muffler and blow into the end. I can hear the fuel going into the carb, and when I do I stop. Mine makes a slight crackling sound. Anyway, just be sure not to flood it. If you do, just remove the glowplug, turn the car upside down and turn the engine over. The extra fuel will spill out the glowplug hole.

Trying to start a flooded engine can be bad for the engine, so be careful! You should be able to tell when its flooded, everything sounds like its under stress (and feels that way with a pullstart).

This method works A-OK for me.

I recommend running the engine dry before you put your car away. Fuel sitting in the engine can gum up and cause problems over time. After the engine is dry (it will sputter out, then install glow plug ignitor and keep trying to start until it sounds like there is absolutely no fuel. It will try to sputter to life a few times until all the fuel is gone), remove the glow plug and put a few drops of after run oil in through the hole. Turn the engine over a few times, the put the piston at bottom dead center. Install glow plug and put car away for the day.

This method will ensure your engine stays fresh and healthy for a long time. Mine always starts on the 1st or 2nd pull, even when sitting without use for months. Its a little more work, but it pays in the end.

HTH


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If anyone is looking for a nitro car, I've got an HPI Nitro RS4 3 SS that I never drive anymore . . . I enjoy building them a lot more than driving . . . I'd be willing to sell the whole setup for a pretty reasonable price, PM me if you are interested.


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Hmm...I read about blowing into the pressure line, so i'll try that next time. As for running the engine dry...i've just been running it until the tank is empty. I guess this weekend i'll have to try your method too.


And brian, you're 2 weeks too late dammit!!

But i'm real happy with the car i got, and the price.


1999 Silver Frost SVT #609 of 2760 Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
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