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#1565825 05/06/06 08:18 PM
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after a install off a torsen t-2 spec stage 2 clutch and fidanza flywheel my abs light is on and my speedo if off a bunch. what could it be? does abs control the speedo?

also when car runing in nuetral i hear a chatering sound from trany and when i press in the clutch it goes away. is that normal till break in period, i did buy a ford slave cylinder from bill and i used all torque specs from ford.

i used a new speedo gear and made sure it was seated right

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The ABS computer uses the VSS signal as one of its several inputs. If the VSS signal is incorrect, the ABS computer will be forced offline and the ABS light will be turned on.

Based on your description, the sound may be the TOB rattling.

Steve


98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car 89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles 94 SHO ATX - 190K 1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K. ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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well speedo is working and abs light is on still goes on and off.

this started when we put it in gear with it up on jacks

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allright after car is driven 45 min city the speedo starts reading wrong but if i make a right turn it's ok till i go back straight, if i make a left turn it goes to 0 but this only happens if the car has warmed up, i only added 2.5 quarts of mobil 1 syntec mtf fluid after rebuild, could lack of fluid be the prob. also my buddy said the vss sensor plug was hard to get together and would not lock in place.

any post would help!!!

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" vss sensor plug was hard to get together and would not lock in place."
There's the issue there.

VSS change by unisys.

"VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)

I had to change my VSS late this afternoon, so I thought I would walk you guys through the process on my Duratec/CD4E. It's really not all that bad, except unplugging the connector. My symptoms were pretty simple... Bouncing/in-accurate seedo and once that was bad enough, the tranny would not shift properly.

- Secure the vehicle, in the air, safely.

- Remove your air cleaner & tubing.

- Reach down, under the brake booster, and locate the VSS connector. You can actually see it better from the bottom, just no way to actually reach it from there. It will take some serious single handed twisting to disconnect this connection, but don't give up!

- From under the car, use a 5/16" wrench to remove the single bolt from the VSS retainer. * Note that this retainer looks like it is upside down, with a tab resting on the case of the tranny. Don't fret! This is normal, but be sure to replace the retainer in the same way that it was removed.

- Grasp the sensor body and lightly wiggle it out of it's location. Use gently force when wiggling, but apply steady pressure upwards. The sensor body should slide right out. Do not jerk upwards on the sensor, when removing it, or you will run the risk of gear coming off the end of the sensor. This is not a real big deal, since the gear itself is about an inch tall. Along with the added shaft that is part of the gear, the gear assy is probably around 4 inches long. You should be able to grasp it with a pair of crooked needle nose pliers, but it would be one hella tight fit!!

- Once the sensor is out of the case and you have removed the gear assy from the sensor body, use a rag to wrap around the body of the sensor base. This part of the sensor is metal, so we don't want to damage it. Use a pair of pliers and grasp the metal part of the sensor. LIGHTLY! Do Not Squeeze Hard!! Just apply a small amount of pressure here. And use a 1" wrench on the plastic part of the body and seperate the two halfs.

- At this point, you get simply reverse. But something that I should note here... There is a seal on the metal half of the sensor base. Be sure to inspect this seal closely or better yet, just replace it. Also, be sure to clean everything really good and lube everything down with CLEAN ATF before putting it all back together.

Part number of the sensor - F-F5RZ-9E371-BC

Cost of part - 44.67 + tax = 47.80

Part was purchused from local Ford Dealer

Reason for sensor replacement - Notice about a week ago that when traveling over bumpy roads, that my speedometer would fluctuate +/- 5mph. Monday, of this week, it progressivly got worse (of course) and the speedo would actually stay at 0 when taking off from a stand still, as well as droping to 0 when I let off the gas. In only 60 miles of driving, on that day, it managed to toast the ATF I had in there, which only had about 5K on it. Yes, I have also changed my ATF as well."

From Autozone for VSS change
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/cb/ad/0900823d801bcbad.jsp

Last edited by Tony2005; 05/08/06 12:38 AM.

"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles

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