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#1564172 05/04/06 02:06 AM
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Symptoms:

If cruising in a certain gear at a constant rpm and I blip the throttle:

The car will jump when i hit the gas. Once the throttle is released the car feels like the engine rocks back and forth a few times before it settles down...

Also, if say I'm at a dead stop, take off normally only up to 15mph or so. Then let off the gas and just let the car slow down. Once the rpm's get close to idle it begins to do the same rocking motion.

I want to think this is a mount...I could be way off and am open to suggestions. But is there anyway to visually inspect or test the mounts or if it's only one mount that is bad, find out which one is the culprit?


I live in Detroit, I couldn't give a **** how good my car is in the "twisties." "I could use a hundred people who don't know there is such a word as impossible." ~Henry Ford
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it sounds like a mount. same problem with my buddy's 99 SVT. the mount under the air filter was in two pieces..you can visually check it. its like $100 from ford, or get the one from sho shop.

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Originally posted by 99SVT:
Symptoms:

If cruising in a certain gear at a constant rpm and I blip the throttle:

The car will jump when i hit the gas. Once the throttle is released the car feels like the engine rocks back and forth a few times before it settles down...

Also, if say I'm at a dead stop, take off normally only up to 15mph or so. Then let off the gas and just let the car slow down. Once the rpm's get close to idle it begins to do the same rocking motion.

I want to think this is a mount...I could be way off and am open to suggestions. But is there anyway to visually inspect or test the mounts or if it's only one mount that is bad, find out which one is the culprit?




a great way to check it is to pop the hood and rev the engine via the throttle body, just WOT it once or twice, if it rocks back and forth pretty hard, then you probably need to look into some new mounts... A more in depth test, you can have a buddy set the parking brake and let the clutch out in first gear, just at idle, till RIGHT before the engine dies, then have him push the clutch back in, you can use that to see how hard it rocks back and forth.


98 Corolla LE 1.8L DOHC 1ZZFE TEIN H.Tech Springs Tokico HP series Struts Short ram air intake Tsudo Axel Back Exhaust ... if a jelly fish stung me.. would you pee on the wound?
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yeah sounds like a mount or so.

does yours tend to chatter when you take off? or does it jerk pretty hard if you drop the clutch quick? i know my car, if i dont let the clutch out just oh so perfect with just the right amount of throttle (which means grinding it quite a bit), it chatters. if i shift quick and drop the clutch, it jerks real hard waits a little then moves. but id definitely look into that front mount as it can have alot of room to move around. pretty bad mount design if you ask me. of course i got a zetec


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Originally posted by saturnspeed_12:
yeah sounds like a mount or so.




2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Exact same symptoms my car has. I chose to order some of pole's poly front & rear mounts (check the Group Buy section under P.R.T. poly roll resistors), but they may be too stiff for your tastes. Along the same line I believe Energy Suspension made or used to make poly (or at least performance oriented) mounts as well.


Ben *now* '00 CSVT T-red/tan #1684/2150 *sold* '92 Galant VR-4 #580/1000 *sold* '93 FD3S TT
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I am also having what I believe to be motor mount issues. My car gets a case of the wiggles and shimmies when I step on the gas from 3rd or 4th gear. I tried reving the engine to WOT while in neutral, but it showed no movement in the engine bay. And it probably won't for you either, because without the car in gear there is not enough weight/stress on the motor mounts to make them move. I was told by a mechanic to do a simple test, one that can be done without the car even being started. Put the car in first gear, release the e-brake, and open the hood. From the front of the car start rocking it back and forth. If the engine moves along with the rocking, you have a bad mount. I was going to try this later today, and see what happens. Sounds like a logical enough test. We'll see.


99 Black SVT -3L Hybrid w/.5mm overbore, Spec clutch/flywheel, MSDS, BAT intake, K&N open, 17'Konig Tantrums, DMD, Opt. TB & Y, Powerslots, Bassani w/ magnaflow res. 96 SE MTX- "The War Wagon" "I'm in love with my car..." -Queen
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Originally posted by CLASSVT:
I am also having what I believe to be motor mount issues. My car gets a case of the wiggles and shimmies when I step on the gas from 3rd or 4th gear. I tried reving the engine to WOT while in neutral, but it showed no movement in the engine bay. And it probably won't for you either, because without the car in gear there is not enough weight/stress on the motor mounts to make them move. I was told by a mechanic to do a simple test, one that can be done without the car even being started. Put the car in first gear, release the e-brake, and open the hood. From the front of the car start rocking it back and forth. If the engine moves along with the rocking, you have a bad mount. I was going to try this later today, and see what happens. Sounds like a logical enough test. We'll see.




Good idea. I think I'm just goig to go ahead and replace all 4.



I live in Detroit, I couldn't give a **** how good my car is in the "twisties." "I could use a hundred people who don't know there is such a word as impossible." ~Henry Ford

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