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Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
yea but heres the weird part, the grinding noise doesnt come from the wheel, it comes from the center. Almost feels like somthing not alligned and its a metal to metal grind.. 
im soo lost, and the vibrations now, i dont understand whats causing those..
The vibrations happen also when going in a staight line? Jack up one wheel, throw the ebrake, put it indrive and listen to the wheel as it spins (dont' give it any gas, ever) then do the other side to see if you can hear a difference. From one side to the other. I'm thinking bearing now myself. How far from RI r you lol I want to check this out 
JD a.k.a Fingers
"Don't Panic"
'98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k
'98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k
Street racing can kill
just less of a chance with a 2.0
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Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoShoâ�??¢:
LOL...so you thought poles mounts made your car a bad drive and you really had a bad wheel bearing!
OWNAGE! 
the pole mounts was really rough on my car, it still shook on the highways regardless of the mounts..The mounts just made my car loud and very rough..
Pete, I told him 1000 times it was not the mounts. They just show the vibration more because they are stiff. If the car wasn't vibrating alot to begin with, the mounts would of been perfect. But hey, he don't listen to me.
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Originally posted by jd28:
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
yea but heres the weird part, the grinding noise doesnt come from the wheel, it comes from the center. Almost feels like somthing not alligned and its a metal to metal grind..
im soo lost, and the vibrations now, i dont understand whats causing those..
The vibrations happen also when going in a staight line? Jack up one wheel, throw the ebrake, put it indrive and listen to the wheel as it spins (dont' give it any gas, ever) then do the other side to see if you can hear a difference. From one side to the other. I'm thinking bearing now myself. How far from RI r you lol I want to check this out
Manuals have a Drive gear?!?! You learn something new every day! 
'99 Spruce Green SE "Sport" 'Tour, 2.5L MTX...80K and running like it just rolled off the lot.
Tryin' to add an extra .5L ASAP
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Originally posted by CSVT1214:
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoShoâ�??¢:
LOL...so you thought poles mounts made your car a bad drive and you really had a bad wheel bearing!
OWNAGE!
the pole mounts was really rough on my car, it still shook on the highways regardless of the mounts..The mounts just made my car loud and very rough..
Pete, I told him 1000 times it was not the mounts. They just show the vibration more because they are stiff. If the car wasn't vibrating alot to begin with, the mounts would of been perfect. But hey, he don't listen to me.
I never said that mounts made my car shake on the highways, it just made everything rough inside my car say if I was sitting idle and what not..everything inside smade noises that i couldnt bare with..but i knew the mounts weren't causing the car to shake..
#0009
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so I drove the car some more today, it drove really really bad. Felt almost as if somthing will just break out. The passenger side seem to shake alot, even at low speeds. Turning right I would hear some grinding. I got home and decided the car isnt drivable untill I figure out what it is. This thread seems to favor my wheel bearings failing on me..maybe that BANG elky and I heard while lowering the car down was my bearing saying its final goodbye? i dont know, but i need to find out ASAP because i want to get all the parts ordered and in by this comming weekend..so now what Ray described up top about testing for a bad wheel bearing, i'll try that tommorow and see..any other suggestions or tips on making sure its my bearings? thanks
#0009
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Jack up 1 side and remove the wheel. Grab the hub and check it for lateral play. There shouldn't be any at all. If it wiggles, the bearing is shot or the spindle nut might be loose. Spindle nut being loose is highly unlikely but you never know. Also a good idea before performing the check is to push the caliper piston in a bit. This gives you clearance around the brake pads which otherwise might throw off your test. Check both sides this way and if bad, you'll need a new bearing, spindlenut and anti-seize compound for the bearing OD and ID.
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when i checked for play inthe front end, the movement you saw gooneroo wasn't from a really bad tie rod or anything that was the 'play' in the rack. if you had watched the steering wheel when i did that it would have been moving a little.
i didnt feel any play in the bearings at all.
i am leaning towards bearings or CVs.
its kinda funny how it is only when the car is not under load when this happens. if you take a right turn while on the throttle even just a little bit, it doesn't do it.
well, at least it didnt friday night.
Haroon says with the original mounts in the car it never did this. and it never did it with the filled mounts.
but with the brand new factory mounts it does it.
i want to try and preload the front mount more, the rear is as high as it can go and that got rid of the straight line vibration.
why is the thru hole on the mounts 10 times larger than the diameter of the thru bolt?
NY State Trooper: So what makes your car so special to have SVT all over it?
Me: Er...It was made by Fords SPECIAL Vehicle Team?
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I fyou need a bearing replaced in your hub - I am your man.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Ive been reading more info too and this cant just be the bearings, but also axles from my description of the car shaking slightly first but gradually getting worse..well now its worse people have said that they have heard like humming noise which indicate a bad bearing, well im hearing no humming noise, just feeling the car shake like crazy even going in second gear!! passenger side shaking too! read Originally posted by warmonger:
Keep in mind that I have both of my old blown axles still in the garage and they look like new still! 
The vibration had gotten so bad under acceleration that the mirror and passenger seat started to shake going uphill. I let it go a while before they got that bad and as I said the problem first began to manifest itself as a vibration in the 60-75mph range that was slight and annoying at first, unable to be "balanced" away; gradually getting worse up to the excessive case I stated above. The rims, rotors, LCAs, all were new or replaced. One new hub was put on too and always I had that vibration until I put in new axles.
So take this story for what its worth.
so yea..i'll hafta look into that too..  i cant figure it out exactly though what it is, bad axle or bad bearing, or just drive the car off a cliff and call it the day
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If you can pinpoint which side of the car it's on, replace both.  Stazi can hook you up with a new hub w/ the bearing pressed in. I believe NAPA can get you a bearing and even press it in for a good deal as well. Install an axle, and see if things get better. Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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