If you have a MTX it will be easier. This is what you will have to do off the top of my head.

Safely raise the front of the tour (jackstands, never use the factory jack to hold the car)

Remove the passenger wheel. Remove splash sheild.

Mark the direction of your drive belt.You might need a helper but uses a 15mm wrench come from the top and pull the tension off the drive belt, have you helper pull the belt off the crank pully. Tensioner tool will help also.

With that out of the way, now it time to take on the pully bolt. you need a 18mm 1/2 drive socket (use a 6point not a 12point, 12point will round a bolt np) you will need a 1/2 drive breaker bar.

Now for ATX or MTX, if you have the MTX you can have a helper push on the brake while the car is in 1st gear, and you should have no problem turning that bolt. Well could spray it down first with PB or WD40 to help out a bit.

ATX you will be faced with either removing the starter and putting prybar in flywheel. Or, my 1998 contour GL 2.0L (not sure if this applies to all years), I found on mine under the car (from front going back past oil pan) The engine to xmission bell housing has a rubber plug looking thing kinda like a big triangle looking.... thing... anyway I remove that and put a prybar on one of the flywheel bolts (hey maybe that area is called the flywheel inspection port lol)

After you get the bolt out, the pully should slide off. But sometimes things don't always go as it should so be ready with a correct pully puller.



JD a.k.a Fingers "Don't Panic" '98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k '98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k Street racing can kill just less of a chance with a 2.0