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Originally posted by JEDsContour:
If it weren�t for your good compression numbers, I'd suspect there might be more to this than a turbo gasket. Is it possible there�s a problem with your rings or cylinder walls that the compression test didn�t indicate?
Just to say it, I'm really sorry to read you�re still having problems with this - you deserve some good luck by now.
I'm really tempted to rent a leak down type tester to see if that is the case. Just because I can build compression, doesn't really mean I can retain it.
I am pretty burned out, but am keeping faith that it can be resolved  
2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone 
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Originally posted by warmonger:
It won't do it at idle....It'll take a week! lol
You need to get out to a back road, engine on low boost and just run the heck out of it to get everything hot and burn it out. It can take a while with less oil so I can only imagine your situation.
Oh man, is it bad! While tooling around an industrial area, I was leaving a 1/2 mile long cloud! I was going back and forth and after doing my 3rd U-turn (no real wind at all to clear it out....) it was crazy on the amount of smoke! 
I am so tempted to drop the cat-back, cap off the mufflers and fill the system with a simple green soloution and let it soak over night. Then uncap it and flush it out with fresh water. I don't want to smoke this badly for a week 
2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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Drop the cat-back system and then run the car and see if it still smokes 
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I'll do that while the cat-back is off the car, and after the revisions in the PCV setup. I'm just waiting on the stealership to be open tomorrow for a new PCV, but otherwise I am ready to test 'er out now. With the fresh downpipe, it shouldn't smoke at all. (Note: Love the open wastegate sound! Kinda like a mean raspy burp/growl  )
I didn't have time to wait for my downpipe to be TIG'd, so I rented a MIG setup and did it myself. I didn't want to risk doing it with my lame flux cored wire welder.
No pics yet, I got caught up in the process of getting everything done.
2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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Originally posted by TC'd Swazo:
As of right now, I have 2 nipples on my intake pipe (inbetween the turbo compressor inlet and MAF: draw-thru) and the PCV has one, the valve cover vents have the other. Both systems have their own oil seperator.
I know my POS "Lightning" (generic F-series, non-sealing metal POS) is not sealing much, if at all. I am going to get a motorcraft plastic Contour spec PCV that seals as a next step and reroute the PCV into the intake manifold rather than it's currant tap.
No oil consumption at all, and no oil in the oil seportators.
That is half of your problem I'd bet!
PCV outlet (vacuum side) MUST be behind the throttlebody constantly having air drawn through it.
Once the manifold is pressurized by the turbo and the pressure reverses the PCV valve piston then it will seal off the crankcase from the pressure. Any excess blowby will push back out the valve cover vents into the turbo inlet and be drawn into the engine and burned.
If you are running your pcv outlet on the inlet to your turbo then you can't clear the blow-by when you are at idle and its pretty meager when you are cruising.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by TC'd Swazo:
As of right now, I have 2 nipples on my intake pipe (inbetween the turbo compressor inlet and MAF: draw-thru) and the PCV has one, the valve cover vents have the other. Both systems have their own oil seperator.
I know my POS "Lightning" (generic F-series, non-sealing metal POS) is not sealing much, if at all. I am going to get a motorcraft plastic Contour spec PCV that seals as a next step and reroute the PCV into the intake manifold rather than it's currant tap.
No oil consumption at all, and no oil in the oil seportators.
That is half of your problem I'd bet!
PCV outlet (vacuum side) MUST be behind the throttlebody constantly having air drawn through it.
Once the manifold is pressurized by the turbo and the pressure reverses the PCV valve piston then it will seal off the crankcase from the pressure. Any excess blowby will push back out the valve cover vents into the turbo inlet and be drawn into the engine and burned.
If you are running your pcv outlet on the inlet to your turbo then you can't clear the blow-by when you are at idle and its pretty meager when you are cruising.
du da dah!!!
98 E0 SVT with some stuff
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Correct: PCV should be direct to the intake maifold and the valve cover to the intake pipe BEFORE the turbo (after the MAF)
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Originally posted by Stazi:
Correct: PCV should be direct to the intake maifold and the valve cover to the intake pipe BEFORE the turbo (after the MAF)
Just like stock ... the turbo should fit into the stock intake system between the throttle body and the "Idle Air Bypass Tube" correct?
Last edited by fastcougar; 05/15/06 03:09 PM.
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Originally posted by fastcougar:
Originally posted by Stazi:
Correct: PCV should be direct to the intake maifold and the valve cover to the intake pipe BEFORE the turbo (after the MAF)
Just like stock ... the turbo should fit into the stock intake system between the throttle body and the "Idle Air Bypass Tube" correct?
No. The IAC bypass tube must be on the pressure side of the turbo as it will leak down pressure back into the low pressure side of the turbo. It also may damage the plunger.
You aren't using the IAC under load and definitely not under boost, so you want no pressure differential across it except at idle. At idle that would be controlled by the TB and the turbo would play no part in that.
So:
-PCV outlet into the manifold after the TB plate.
-Valve cover vent after the MAF and before the turbo compressor inlet.
-IAC tube after the turbo but before the throttlebody. Put it after the intercooler core if you have room, right next to your IAT sensor.
- Wastegate vacuum/pressure should be tapped right before the throttlebody, after the intercooler if you want to compensate for the pressure drop of the intercooler assembly before you open up the gate. This means that tapping off the turbo will open the turbo when the exducer pressure hits the same as the spring pressure. Then you will get a pressure drop across the intercooler and you will see lower pressure than your wastegate setting...most likely. If you do it after, then whatever pressure is hitting the throttle plate is applied to the wastegate, somewhat eliminating the pressure drop of the intercooler. Not a big deal either way, but worthy of mention and usefull if you don't use a boost controller.
- Blow-off should be tapped right after the throttlebody plate, same as the power brake booster and related vacuum lines.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by fastcougar:
Just like stock ... the turbo should fit into the stock intake system between the throttle body and the "Idle Air Bypass Tube" correct?
Just for clarification ...
Stock System:
1) Air filter feeds into MAF
2) MAF feeds into intake tube
3) Valve cover breather vents feed into intake tube
4) IAC bypass tube feeds into IAC valve
5) intake tube feeds into Throttle Body
Boosted System:
1) Air filter feeds into MAF
2) MAF feeds into intake tube
3) Valve cover breather vents feed into intake tube
4) IAC bypass tube feeds into IAC valve
4b) intake tube feeds into Turbo inlet
4c) turbo inlet feeds into intercooler piping
5) intercooler piping feeds into Throttle Body
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