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#1555642 05/05/06 10:02 PM
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Originally posted by Stazi:
Like mine?





Hector 2003 Rally Red Mitsubishi Evolution VIII 257HP/259TQ 2005 Lapis Blue Mazda 6s RET: 00 Cabernet Red Ford Contour Zetec ATX SUPERCHARGED 160HP/141TQ
#1555643 05/06/06 03:07 PM
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Originally posted by TC'd Swazo:
It's only oil cooled. Good point about the mounting location, though if it isn't flowing enough oil I could imagine the turbo getting too hot. I'll talk to the tech tomorrow to see what he thinks about the ideal size of a restrictor. I got a call that they've finished with the rebuild ($375 ).

I was told it was new at the time I got ahold of it, and from the way it looked I can believe it. Though, I know I could clean up the turbine housing to make it look new too.




I hate to say it, but you'd have been better off getting a new cross bearing assembly with watercooled bearings and having the housings/wheels installed. THat would have increased the longevity 10-fold at least! AND it would virtually eliminate the need for a cool down period on anything other than hard running. Call the guy up and ask him how hard it would be to add a watercooled bearing assembly, normally it only costs like $75-$100 add-on when getting a T3/4 turbo. Since he's rebuilt the old bearing he can use that on a rebuilt turbo and sell you the water cooled assembly for maybe a bit more....hopefully.

I always gave about a 1 minute cooldown after beating racing my car before shutting it off, but normal driving I just waited maybe 10 seconds and shut it off. I did have the benefit of an EGT guage and my criteria was letting the temps drop to 400 degrees C or lower at idle after getting off of it, both Turbo or N/A.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
#1555644 05/06/06 04:08 PM
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Swazo Offline OP
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It's worth a shot I wasn't able to make it in to pick it up yesterday before they shut down for the week, so it may have worked out well.

I have a pyrometer I am going to install actually. This is the best time to install it now that the turbo is out of the car and the piping is open. I picked all of your brains on where I should place the probe for best results, I'll have to freshen up on it today.


2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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I've got them switching me over to a water cooled center section for $150. I really would rather do it right this time around...... I'm glad you poited out the obvious for me Tom


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Cool. Just FYI, you take the coolant bypass line going from the water pump housing over the trans and into the heater core and tap into it.
You will cut it where there is a 90* bend near the pump and get another couple small 90* bends from autozone along with hose couplers and connect it to the short piece still coming off the water pump. This will get the water pump line to the turbo bearing assembly, then the other end of the line just goes onto the opposite side of the turbo bearing and on into the heater core.
Works great, lasts a long time.... and only takes like 20min to hook up.
And about $10 in hose clamps, couplers and the rubber hose elbows.
Oh, its 5/8" hose IIRC.... or maybe 3/4" Oh well.
you'll figure that part out.
Oh, and you'll need two brass barbed fittings, the 1/2" NPT thread on one end will thread into the turbo bearings....available at home depot or Ace hardware.
Convenient.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Actually Tom, the hose that goes to the heater core which is RIGHT THERE next to the turbo is already cut from the factory and has a male-tomale connector in there. I just took out the connector and use the turbo as the connector and viola!


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Yeah, I know it is cut but on my car the split is in the wrong spot making one end a bit short and then the other end had a kink in it where the bends in the hose were. So I solved the problem by cutting it at the bend and adding an elbow that allowed it to go up and turn right into the turbo, and the the part of the bend left on the other end was the perfect length to go around the turbo towards the left fender and plug on.

But yeah, he could do that esp. if it lines up good enough.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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The coolant line couldn't have worked out any better than it does! I should be up and running with a few mods under my belt by the end of the week


2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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The turbo is installed, coolant lines are run and I am just tacking up the new downpipe so it can be TIG'd tomorrow.

::sigh::

I'm pooped


2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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Originally posted by TC'd Swazo:
The turbo is installed, coolant lines are run and I am just tacking up the new downpipe so it can be TIG'd tomorrow.

::sigh::

I'm pooped


Got any pictures?

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