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Ok, very stupid question Maybe I should have double checked the turbo seeing it came from a guy named "Drunken Will"
2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,065
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by TC'd Swazo: Ok, very stupid question
Maybe I should have double checked the turbo seeing it came from a guy named "Drunken Will"
I thought I remembered you getting that thing from a questionable source! LMFAO!
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Joined: Aug 2003
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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98 E0 SVT with some stuff
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Shiz! Hope that's the end of that problem!
1998 Mystique LS:
-2.5 Duratec ATX
-Vibrant White
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=Pics=
=Info=
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I've found that most T3's don't have the seal between the compressor housing and the backing plate. Many just spray a thin layer of copper RTV on to make a seal or the like.
On turbomustangs.com, I've been reading up on very simular situations where they're smoking. Most people run atleast a 5/8"/-10AN oil return line to stop issues like mine. They also atleast run a -3AN or -4AN feed line with a restrictor, which I do have.
How large of an I.D. return line do you all run? Mine is 1/2" copper with high temp hose ends simply to adapt it to my fittings with hose barbs.
On top of getting the missing gaskets, I'm considering ditching the hose fittings and get down to the pipe thread to -AN adapters, bore them out to as big of an I.D. as I can, and build a new solid return line that's 5/8" or 3/4".
2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Where does your return line enter the engine ... pan or block? Also, what fixture is at the return end ... slip fit or threaded? If you feel like doing it right, I would suggest these guys as a starting point to design you own solution: ATP Turbo: Oil Supply Section Here you can customize the return line (10AN) however you want it: ATP Turbo Return Oil Line Customizer
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Slip fit with -AN to NPT adapters on both ends, and it's tapped into the block above the pan. From everything I've read, I am damn sure this is my problem. T3's do not have oil seals, but rather piston ring type rings. I'm not dorwning my turbo in oil because of the feed, but because it simply can't drain fast enough. Thanks for the link, I'm going to order a return line from them today
2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,454
Learned patience the hard way
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Learned patience the hard way
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,454 |
You can get those lines made up at any hydraulic hose shop around town. Shoot, most high performance auto parts shops will have the braided stainless and push lock or screw on type ends that you'll need too. Should be quicker and probably the same or less cost.
Rick
Owner of 00 #1611 Silver (Totalled) 98.5 T-Red SVT #6180
Buckshot77@msn.com
Misc 3L parts for sale
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What size is the restrictor? You only need about a one thou hole in it. There are several ADC turbo kits out there with a half inch drain.
Edit: none are running your turbo however.
Last edited by Keyser; 04/26/06 03:27 PM.
2001 Lincoln LS8
1994 Lexus GS300
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Originally posted by Buckshot77: You can get those lines made up at any hydraulic hose shop around town.
I had some fresh high pressure hoses pressed onto my BMW tranny fittings at a heavy equipment hydraulics shop. Cost me $5. Dealer wanted $178 for each of the two assemblies.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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