Originally posted by morbid:
Originally posted by Todd aRRRRRRRRR.:
Originally posted by Tisby:
IMO Ford Honey is too expensive to use for either (A) and break-in or (B)a "flush." That's the end of my reasoning.



Break in? There is no break in. If there was a break in wouldn't Ford advise that when you picked up your car from the dealer. Just run what you're going to to be it Synchromax or Honey. Even after a rebuild. Their is a magnet in the trans to pick up any particles should their be any.



Todd... you know that contradicts what Terry advises for his trannys. He told me to run dino ATF for the first 750 miles.



I just talked to Terry. He said that the days of ATF and friction modifier are over. Do not, he says, put ATF in the MTX-75. He recommends the Ford honey, but he says the RP SynchroMax might be a good subsitute.

As far as the break in period goes, I believe that this only applies to those transmissions that are coated at HMS. For my tranny, which has the coating, Terry told me that after 300 miles of moderate city driving, to drain and fill. He says some of the coating will get in the oil, turning it a little grey, and it is to be drained.

He also made an interesting point. Whatever you use to break in a new transmission, use that same fluid for the life of the transmisssion. I'm not a metallurgy expert, but my layman's explanation is that the brass-alloy compounds used in the forks are porous. If you put x-fluid in, x-fluid will get in the pores and won't entirely leave the metal. The same is true of the aluminum case. I haven't welded on aluminum, but I understand that, for a few different reasons, you pre-heat the metal prior to welding. Aluminum is porous and pre-heating leaches out contaminents prior to welding.

If your tranny is not new, and you change fluids, you won't ever be able to get all the old fluid out of the metals. This would compromise a comparison of a different oils.

Black 1998.5 3L Oval Port Full HMS Transmission Lots of other stuff Ressurected 06/14/06