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Originally posted by jd28:
Originally posted by ftribC2:
ahh man!
 
I guess it's nice to finally know what it was, but man you went through a whole pile of crap just to find that.
I'm really sorry to hear it.
I hope you don't beat yourself up over it too badly.
Which is why I was thinking not to post it... I hope no one takes me as an ass....
its all good, now if somthing like this were to happen to anyone else, we'd know what to expect or give them more pointers on how to resolve a similar issue. More power to you man, congrads 
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Originally posted by jd28:
Which is why I was thinking not to post it... I hope no one takes me as an ass....
Honestly I thought the exact opposite of you in this topic. You did offer several times to check out the car and I while Mike is pissed at the situation (understandably!) it's not your fault the fix was quick for you and he is clearly not angry at you at all.
Congrats, lol ..
I'm also extremely angry at Pride Ford for not being able to trace this down, though. Make it another dealership I will never recommend to anyone...
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wow...that dealership needs a kick in the ass!!!
so now buy the car back!
haha
NY State Trooper: So what makes your car so special to have SVT all over it?
Me: Er...It was made by Fords SPECIAL Vehicle Team?
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It did throw a CEL, I stalled it in the yard (showing my friend how to drive stick, where it will stall) right after the restart (and I believe it was the 3rd start of the day) it had a CEL light, the computer hasn't even learned the table yet. I'll clear it and drive it, if it throws it again trip to the zone. Mike did you say you also already replaced the TPS?
JD a.k.a Fingers
"Don't Panic"
'98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k
'98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k
Street racing can kill
just less of a chance with a 2.0
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We can't get too excited about it running yet. The car revs way up to 4k rpm. Its fine when it's started, but after you go up the road and depress the clutch and hit the brake, it's as if you r holding the gas down... Still something TPS related maybe...
JD a.k.a Fingers
"Don't Panic"
'98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k
'98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k
Street racing can kill
just less of a chance with a 2.0
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Ok it's a few things making it act funny, I got it to not go as high, and the CEL is gone. I'm ripping into her now, finding some hidden' issues along the way. Also never use grease on the sensor contacts, the grease isn't a conductor and must of been putting a high resistence on the TPS connectors. I removed the grease using contact cleaner on the MAF, Cam sensor, IAC, and TPS. RPMS hanging at 2000 2500 now, and will come down on there own. But then I also found this... Bottom IAC holding bolt snapped off, I say she has to be leaking around there. Ordered a new valve for 37.00.  The lower intake flap towards the front, you can see the linkage isn't connected anymore, the retainer clip is broken. I'm sure she not likeing that too much. And only found it because I pull the upper intake.   I'm going to send the Upper and lower to the parts washer.
JD a.k.a Fingers
"Don't Panic"
'98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k
'98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k
Street racing can kill
just less of a chance with a 2.0
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Originally posted by jd28:
First I must stress this, I would never knock someones work, nor would tell them to not attempt stuff them self. It is also why I ask what you want to do if it's something simple.... Please do not be upset about what I will say.
Basicly I feel really bad, and wish it was something more...
The TPS harness was shorted out. All the wires touched after the final wrap. I knew that the computer is a very very very hard thing to fry, even if you shorted everything out, it's hard to kill. I moved the TPS harness (last thing I went for) and the fuel pump and relays clicked with each movement of the wire... I openned the harness up, made sure nothing was touching... she fired right up...
I had a feeling all along that it was something simple and silly that was wrong. That sounds like it was something simple and silly to me.
I'm just shocked that with the test equipment and trained personell that the dealer was unable to pinpoint a problem like this.
I feel sorry for the people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, thats the best they're going to feel all day - former President Lyndon B. Johnson
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Originally posted by JSmith:
Originally posted by jd28:
First I must stress this, I would never knock someones work, nor would tell them to not attempt stuff them self. It is also why I ask what you want to do if it's something simple.... Please do not be upset about what I will say.
Basicly I feel really bad, and wish it was something more...
The TPS harness was shorted out. All the wires touched after the final wrap. I knew that the computer is a very very very hard thing to fry, even if you shorted everything out, it's hard to kill. I moved the TPS harness (last thing I went for) and the fuel pump and relays clicked with each movement of the wire... I openned the harness up, made sure nothing was touching... she fired right up...
I had a feeling all along that it was something simple and silly that was wrong. That sounds like it was something simple and silly to me.
I'm just shocked that with the test equipment and trained personell that the dealer was unable to pinpoint a problem like this.
Well they did and didn't. They came back saying E4 harness. If you look up the E4 harness it's the harness that goes into the computer and out to every sensor. It also has the power come down into it. The TPS sensor is part of the E4 harness. The part about throwing a computer at it I don't totally understand but they were trying to rule it out, at the cost of the customer.
And I'm sure there is other things that made them not want to take it, as a dealer I'm sure they had some nightmares come in. They where ignorant to the car because they saw work done, and he said he messed with it (I would assume told them what he did work on).
This is where they started jumping the gun. Also when you pop the hood and see some flames painted on, and wire all bunched up by the fusebox (from add ons) the tech will start acting like "wow someone f'd with it" all that was is air horn and fog lights, but a tech would just assume that it's a problem, and someone been moding and racing it (which wasn't the case in this car) but this is how they act, because of the cars that have been hacked up and fried.
How I did it. I wanted the old computer with the car because it would already be programmed for the keys or should be. I openned the computer too see for any signs of a major fry (though ICs don't show that, caps and resistors will) smelled the computer too sniffed for any kind of a left over cooked trail ( i know I'm crazy) got lightheaded from the sniffing and figured lets plug it back in...
PATS light started flashing... I knew there is function in this computer. Turned the key no CEL no start. Openned up relay box, jumped the starter relay terminals and she cranked over. Before hand I was printing up countless schematics on wiring relation and so on. I know how a relay works, and knew there was no ground on the other side of the coil for it to not work. Schematic shows the PCM ties back to the ground side of the coil for the starter relay and this is why it's not going to crank, PATS.
Next thing I thought was power relay for PCM, had the key in the run posistion pulled the relay and it clicked off, put it back in and it clicked on, but no CEL.
In the meantime the car is still in run, I figure well last thing to go for is short, I'll check this TPS harness (touched it) and click from the fuse box and a very noticable fuel pump prime from the rear (the PCM controlls the fuel pump relay also) moved it around, click, click I knew she was on, check the dash had a CEL, turned the key she started. Fixed the TPS wires.
Then today the reason why it was being worked on. First CEL on without even driving, just starting 3-4 times and running 2-3 mins it tripped it.
Cleared it went for a drive, got to the top of the street push the clutch and the brake to stop, and RPMS went up to 4000 and stayed there. Went to next stop sign, same thing even waiting for it too come down, tapping gas to see if something was hanging. Started going up more, and people were looking at me like this man doesn't know how to drive stick or thinks he's cool (it was the later one hehe) went back around the block with the engine racing. If I shut it off the idle would be fine until the next stop.
Die grease, it was causing a resistence on the contact throwing it off. Flushed that, and check the other sensors all having it, flushed them all off. But then the RPMs getting stuck at 2500, even if you didn't really bring it up that much. But after 3-4 seconds would come down. IAC faulty/leaky no bottom bolt head, assumed bottom was also leaking (had to be) pulled upper intake (thought it would be easy to remove the remaing bolt stud with it off so I don't damage the surface) found linkage for lower intake butterfly flap controll (whatever it's called) disconnected, the flaps were not moving at all on the side towards the front, and even r sticky.
So going to clean the upper and lower intake, replace the gaskets for them, also EGR gasket, IAC gasket and IAC, also get a clip to hold the linkage onto the flaps for the lower intake, and see if that fixes the high RPM problem.
JD a.k.a Fingers
"Don't Panic"
'98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k
'98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k
Street racing can kill
just less of a chance with a 2.0
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high RPMS at stop lights eh? could it be resolved with the TH fix? I know when i got my headers put on, the shop thew away my little piece for the TH fix and I drove the car with the same symptoms, every stop resulted in my RPMS just going higher and higher untill I put a new one in..thats the best I can come up with 
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Originally posted by Stinky Brown Paki!:
high RPMS at stop lights eh? could it be resolved with the TH fix? I know when i got my headers put on, the shop thew away my little piece for the TH fix and I drove the car with the same symptoms, every stop resulted in my RPMS just going higher and higher untill I put a new one in..thats the best I can come up with
I know the fix your refering too. But I'm sure the broken bolt isn't helping (has to be letting air sneak in), and that linkage that is off on the lower intake isn't good either.
After some work (removing die grease from the sensors) it wouldn't go as high and would drop after 3 seconds, maybe the IAC valve just sticky/leaking. But thought it would be easier to remove the bolt stud left in there with the upper intake off, and good thing because I would of never found that lower intake linkage hanging.
Just have to wait now for gaskets.
JD a.k.a Fingers
"Don't Panic"
'98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k
'98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k
Street racing can kill
just less of a chance with a 2.0
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