Originally posted by mean'tour: I also tested the starter by taking a large piece of wire (piece of old jumper cable) and connected the small wire to the large wire on the starter and it cranked!! But no start. I juggled everything and made that connection, opened the throttle AND PRAYED all at once. But still NO GO!
I'll try the DANGEROUS way tonight.
What else should I be checking? I pulled the back seat and foudn the fuel pump and checked the wiring on it. Seemed fine.
I opened up around the steering column and found the PATS ring that goes around the ignition/ key and checked the connections there, seemed fine. Nothing else seemed strange there. All wiring looked fine...
Strange question. I have taken my console out recently. What is the blue box basically behind the little pocket on the console, below the head unit? Just curious. Behind the console I found a wire with a flat connector about 2 inches long by about a 1/4 inch that was not connected to anything. The wires come out from the same spot in the dash as the lighter power.
Any other ideas? A new diode and neutral safety switch will be here soon, probably tomorrow (I hope).
Does anyone know where the PCM is? PATS? Ignition switch? Any photos?
Thanks again for all the suggestions and help. I do appreciate it!
excellent.. thats all I can say for your testing and what you've found out. The tests you did prove that all the wiring between the starter and R6 & R6 and the battery is intact. And when you shorted the two wires at the starter and the engine cranked that prooves that the starter, its solenoid, the battery and the battery cable going to the starterare ok. So the search to find out why the starter isn't working has now become very narrow.
The only things in the system that we're not sure of now are the neutral safety switch, the diodes you are going to replace and R6. Like I said, just becasue a relay like R6 clicks doesn't mean that it is making the connection it is supposed to. You can test the relay by putting power to the two pins that lead to the coil inside and check the resistance through the other two pins but the meter usues a very low current to test resistance and its possible that the contacts are in a condition where they will allow the current from the meter to pass with low resistance but not allow enough current to pass for the solenoid on the starter to work
When you checked resistance between the battery and the small wire on the starter with R6 removed and the jumper wire in place that shows that all that wiring is intact. But the only thing that wasn't part of the test was R6, therefore it could be bad and we don't know. What I'm saying is that the only sure fire way to know is to replace R6.
I'm not sure where the PATS is located. The ignition switch is located in the steering column directly across from where the key goes. I think the PCM is under the hood under the power steering resivor. That connector you saw, I think that is used when the dealer connects diagnostic equipment.
I feel sorry for the people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, thats the best they're going to feel all day - former President Lyndon B. Johnson
