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hey schmitty...Bill J alread clarified that the switches are neutral safety and cruise.
hehe
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I'm totally at a loss. I just got in from replacing the sensors then taking one of them out and shorting the connections with a wire, then vise versa. Still NOTHING, NADA!
How do I test the ignition switch mentioned earlier?
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Originally posted by svtavino:
How about you check the switches before you replace them. Get a multimeter and put a probe on each connector terminal switch it to ohms and see if you get anything when you hit the switch.
Maybe it isn't starting becuase you screwed up the pats system. See what your securtiy light is doing when you try and start it.
How would I check the PATS system? I watched the red dash light as I tried to start it last night, it just blinked every few seconds.
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Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by svtavino:
How about you check the switches before you replace them. Get a multimeter and put a probe on each connector terminal switch it to ohms and see if you get anything when you hit the switch.
Maybe it isn't starting becuase you screwed up the pats system. See what your securtiy light is doing when you try and start it.
How would I check the PATS system? I watched the red dash light as I tried to start it last night, it just blinked every few seconds.
the pats light blinks when the ignition is off, when you put the key in and turn to position three the light should light for a few seconds then turn off and stay off until the ignition is no longer in position 3
I don't remember, does the fuel pump run when you turn the key to run (position 3)?
starting to sound like the ignition switch isn't working right
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Originally posted by Smitty Smitwagg:
check for voltage at the starter by testing for voltage at the large wire going to the starter. You should have the battery voltage here all the time. Then put the meter on the smaller wire and with the clutch pressed down turn the key to start the engine and thats when you should see battery voltage at the solenoid wire.
If you don't get power going to the smaller wire then there are probably any one of 3 things wrong, R6 is bad, the neutral safety switch is bad or the start contact in the ignition switch is bad.
I'm beginning to think more and more that because these two problems, the starter and the fuel pump, seemed to happen almost simultaneously I'm starting to get a gut feeling that you need to invest some effort into testing the ignition switch. Because the ignition switch is the one individual part that is part of both systems.
That sounds pretty reasonable.
Can someone tell me a few things... (I'm pretty new at all of this and sometimes need more explicit instructions).
1. How exactly would I test the starter voltage? Put the red lead on the 2 areas (at different times) and the black where? Grounded? Put the meter on volts, right?
2. How do I test the ignition switch? Where is it? Is it easily replaceable?
Thanks again to everyone for their suggestions and patience with me.
BrApple, thanks for your suggestions and the offer of the spare ignition switch. I hope to have her back up and running before the weekend, plus I don't think I can make it out on Sunday. But I really do appreciate the offer.
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Originally posted by BrApple:
Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by svtavino:
How about you check the switches before you replace them. Get a multimeter and put a probe on each connector terminal switch it to ohms and see if you get anything when you hit the switch.
Maybe it isn't starting becuase you screwed up the pats system. See what your securtiy light is doing when you try and start it.
How would I check the PATS system? I watched the red dash light as I tried to start it last night, it just blinked every few seconds.
the pats light blinks when the ignition is off, when you put the key in and turn to position three the light should light for a few seconds then turn off and stay off until the ignition is no longer in position 3
I don't remember, does the fuel pump run when you turn the key to run (position 3)?
starting to sound like the ignition switch isn't working right
No, no fuel pump running. I'm starting to think ignition as well (he says as if he knows anything!).
How do I test?
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ignition switch is on the steering collumn oposite of the key, it is easily replaced, might try one from a junk yard if you can find one
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Originally posted by Smitty Smitwagg:
If you can feel R6 clicking then: 1. the start position of the ignition switch is good. 2. R6 is getting the input signal from the ignition switch so the wiring is good.
Just becasue R6 clicks when you turn the key doesn't mean that it is good. Relays can click but the internal switch can be bad. What you need to do now is check out the starter and find the solenoid, like Brapple said, its attached to the starter the solenoid looks like a little round tube with wires going to the back of it. There might be a cover on the back of the solenoid to protect the wires, if there is take it off. Use a voltage meter and check for voltage on the smaller of the wires when your wife turns the key to start. If you see battery voltage then that means that R6 is good and the wiring is good and the starter is bad and needs replacement. If you don't see voltage then R6 is bad and needs to be replaced. If you put the voltage meter on the big wire that comes from the battery, that should also have battery voltage all the time.
I was just rereading this thread to see if there is anything I missed...
I was thinking bad ignition switch, but this post seems to say no to that since R6 does click when I attempt to start it. I have a new R6 relay I have tried as well.
Originally posted by Smitty Smitwagg:
check for voltage at the starter by testing for voltage at the large wire going to the starter. You should have the battery voltage here all the time. Then put the meter on the smaller wire and with the clutch pressed down turn the key to start the engine and thats when you should see battery voltage at the solenoid wire.
If you don't get power going to the smaller wire then there are probably any one of 3 things wrong, R6 is bad, the neutral safety switch is bad or the start contact in the ignition switch is bad.
I'm beginning to think more and more that becasue these two problems, the starter and the fuel pump seemed to happen almost simultaneously I'm starting to get a gut feeling that you need to invest some effort into testing the ignition switch. Becasue the ignition switch is the one individual part that is part of both systems.
I guess I should check the starter wiring out tonight. How exactly would I do that? Reading Volts, touch the red lead where and the black lead where? I tried to read it the other night and got all 0's but wasn't really sure if I was doing it right.
If I was doing it right, what might that mean? A bad wire between the battery and starter? How do you fix that? Could it still be the ignition?
I'm so confused.
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theres a few ways to check it.
the big red wiree should have battery voltage at all times.
so put one lead on the starter there and the other to ground. should read battery voltage.
if not, there is an issue with the cable.
you could then do a resistance check on the cable by setting the DVM to Ohms and touching each end, resistance should be negligable.
if it is high then the cable needs to be replaced.
the smaller red wire should see battery votage when the key is turned to the start position.
you said the started doesnt even click when th ekey is turned right?
when you replaced the starter did you disconnect the battery first?
if not, when the big red wire touched any metal it would have arced...bad.heh.
if it did touch metal and did not arc then that shows that the cable is bad too.
but i hope you disconnected the battery.
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Originally posted by ElKy:
theres a few ways to check it.
the big red wiree should have battery voltage at all times.
so put one lead on the starter there and the other to ground. should read battery voltage.
if not, there is an issue with the cable.
you could then do a resistance check on the cable by setting the DVM to Ohms and touching each end, resistance should be negligable.
if it is high then the cable needs to be replaced.
the smaller red wire should see battery votage when the key is turned to the start position.
you said the started doesnt even click when th ekey is turned right?
when you replaced the starter did you disconnect the battery first?
if not, when the big red wire touched any metal it would have arced...bad.heh.
if it did touch metal and did not arc then that shows that the cable is bad too.
but i hope you disconnected the battery.
Thanks Mr. ElKy. I will try those things tonight.
Yes, nothing happens when you try to start it up. No click, no crank, nothing.
Yes, I did take the battery out when I was changing the starter, I needed the room!
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