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Originally posted by FBooBerryC2:
I'm mostly in awe of your patience and diligence.
hang in there!
You are funny. I'm just trying to take care of it, because we can't really afford a big repair bill right now.
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if the camshaft sensor or the crankshaft sensor fail it won't affect wether the starter turns the engine or not.
To test the camshaft and crankshaft sensors do this: (the procedure is the same for both sensors) remove the connector from the sensor and use a ohmmeter to test the resistance between the sensor terminals crankshaft sensor should be between 200 to 450 ohms. camshaft sensor should b between 200 to 900 ohms. if you get readings different from these then the corresponding sensor needs replacement.
Before you go opening boxes and throwing parts into the car that you can't be certain need replacement I'd like to ask a few questions.
When you put the key in and turn it on so the lights on the dash come on; can you hear the fuel pump, does the radio work, do the power windows work (if you have them)
If none of these things are working there's two things I can think of.
1. In the "auxilary" fuse box under the hood there is what I call a "mother fuse" Its rating should be 80amp maybe more. this is the fuse for the entire auxilary fuse box. It should be listed as fuse#1 but check your owner's manual to make sure. (its big and square with a clear top) If that fuse blows then every circut that is fused from the fuse box under the hood will not work.
Also look for the starter solenoid, this controls power to the starter. It is in the fuse box under the hood, it might be yellow, it's number is R6. There's really no way to test it other than turning the ignition switch to start the engine, you should be able to hear a faint click comming from the soilenoid. If not, its gaboosh.
2. Under the hood, there is big solenoid. It controls power to the auxilary fuse box. This one turns on all the accessories that are controlled by the ignition switch. If this solenoid fails then nothing that is in the suxilary fuse box will work including the starter solenoid.
I found my haynes manual, can you tell 
I feel sorry for the people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, thats the best they're going to feel all day - former President Lyndon B. Johnson
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Originally posted by JSmith:
if the camshaft sensor or the crankshaft sensor fail it won't affect wether the starter turns the engine or not.
To test the camshaft and crankshaft sensors do this: (the procedure is the same for both sensors) remove the connector from the sensor and use a ohmmeter to test the resistance between the sensor terminals crankshaft sensor should be between 200 to 450 ohms. camshaft sensor should b between 200 to 900 ohms. if you get readings different from these then the corresponding sensor needs replacement.
Before you go opening boxes and throwing parts into the car that you can't be certain need replacement I'd like to ask a few questions.
When you put the key in and turn it on so the lights on the dash come on; can you hear the fuel pump, does the radio work, do the power windows work (if you have them)
If none of these things are working there's two things I can think of.
1. In the "auxilary" fuse box under the hood there is what I call a "mother fuse" Its rating should be 80amp maybe more. this is the fuse for the entire auxilary fuse box. It should be listed as fuse#1 but check your owner's manual to make sure. (its big and square with a clear top) If that fuse blows then every circut that is fused from the fuse box under the hood will not work.
Also look for the starter solenoid, this controls power to the starter. It is in the fuse box under the hood, it might be yellow, it's number is R6. There's really no way to test it other than turning the ignition switch to start the engine, you should be able to hear a faint click comming from the soilenoid. If not, its gaboosh.
2. Under the hood, there is big solenoid. It controls power to the auxilary fuse box. This one turns on all the accessories that are controlled by the ignition switch. If this solenoid fails then nothing that is in the suxilary fuse box will work including the starter solenoid.
I found my haynes manual, can you tell
Thanks for your help. Your questions:
1. I don't think that I am hearing the fuel pump. Yes the radio works and all lights interior and exterior (I don't have power windows).
So now I'm thinking it the fuel pump, since I don't hear it cycle on with the key.
How do I test that? How to make sure it's getting power? How to test if it's running? BTW the fuel filter is weeks old.
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maybe you blew the fuse for ur fuel pump? or inst there a primer button near the clutch pedal to prime ur fuel pump? i think 
#0009
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Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
maybe you blew the fuse for ur fuel pump? or inst there a primer button near the clutch pedal to prime ur fuel pump? i think
Fuel cutoff switch. Check that first - free fix if so! IIRC it usually only trips if involved in a severe bump - i.e. a car accident ... but always worth a shot.
My Contour's fuel pump was replaced at 24K miles .. at least you made good mileage out of yours if that turns out to be the issue ..
Last edited by Rouar; 04/11/06 04:26 AM.
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you need to be certain if the fuel pump is running. Even if you have to lay under the car while someone turns the key to the run position.
If its not then checks these first:
Fuse 9, 20 amp, PCM module (fuse box under hood)
Fuse 10, 20 amp, ignition switch (fuse box under hood)
Fuse 11, 3 amp, PCM memory (fuse box under hood)
Fuse 14, 15 amp, fuel pump (fuse box under hood)
Fuse 30, 7.5 amp, engine management system (fuse box inside the car)
relay R6, fuel pump (fuse box under hood)
relay R11, PCM power supply (fuse box under hood)
relay R8, fuel pump, (fuse box under the hood)
check all these, then I'll tell you more stuff to check.
I feel sorry for the people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, thats the best they're going to feel all day - former President Lyndon B. Johnson
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Originally posted by Rouar:
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
maybe you blew the fuse for ur fuel pump? or inst there a primer button near the clutch pedal to prime ur fuel pump? i think
Fuel cutoff switch. Check that first - free fix if so! IIRC it usually only trips if involved in a severe bump - i.e. a car accident ... but always worth a shot.
My Contour's fuel pump was replaced at 24K miles .. at least you made good mileage out of yours if that turns out to be the issue ..
I was under the dash looking at the clutch switch and saw the fuel cutoff button. I pushed it, what should I do with it? How do you reset it? Is that what the button is for? Resetting?
I will get a tester and check all of these relays and fuses tonight. I'm very ignorant of electrical stuff. How do I check them? What sort of tester do I need?
About the Fuel pump, once the line is pressurized and you turn on the ignition would you still hear it? I've been turning the ignition on and off all weekend. Does the fuel pump always turn on even if there is no need?
Thanks for everyone's help, I really do appreciate it.
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to test the fuses use a multimeter set to OHMs and touch the red wire from the meter to any one of the prongs on the fuse and touch the black wire to the other prong on the fuse. The meter should say zero or very close to zero. If it says infinity then the fuse is bad. Or you can use a test light. touch one end of the test light to any one prong of the fuse, connect the other end of the test light to the other prong. If the light comes on the fuse is good.
the relays are difficult to test with a meter. Two things you can do. For the starter solenoid (R6, in the under hood fuse box) have someone turn the key like they're trying to start the engine you should should be able to hear the relay clicking and if you put your finger on top of it you should be able to feel the click. If it doesn't click check fuse 10 (ignition switch) in the fuse box under the hood, if this fuse is good you need to test the starter.
The PCM relay (R11) is also in the fuse box under the hood. There are 3 or 4 more relays in a group with this one, they should all the same and if so you can swap them. You can use this ability to test them. Before you remove a relay or put one in, disconnect the battery. If you swap the PCM relay (R11) with the low beam headlight relay (R9) you can then turn on the low beam headlights. If they work then the relay is good, if not get a new relay.
The fuel cut off switch has a reset button on it. You reset the switch by pressing the botton. If the cut-off switch has not been tripped pressing the buttion will not affect operation of the system.
any time you turn the key to the run position (the spot you turn the key to so that the lights in the instrument panel come on) Every time the key is turned to this position the fuel pump is supposed to run for 2 to 3 seconds.
I hope this get you going in the right direction.
Jason
Last edited by JSmith; 04/11/06 11:36 PM.
I feel sorry for the people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, thats the best they're going to feel all day - former President Lyndon B. Johnson
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Jason,
Wow that is really helpful. Thanks so much!
I checked all the fuses you listed earlier in the thread last night without any problems, they all tested at under an oHm. I tried to test the relays, but it wasn't as obvious how to do so... I was able to get the ones you listed to test under an oHm by touching a certain combination of leads...
I will test the relays again tonight.
At this point I believe it to be the fuel pump or the starter. I had my wife cycle the key last night after I put everything back together. I lay beneath the fuel filter, I couldn't hear anything. I'll test the relays like you mentioned tonight.
Anyone... How do you test the starter? How do you test the fuel pump?
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Have you tried the fuel pump reset (in the trunk)?
Doug
2006 Mercury Milan V6 Premier Dark Blue Pearl
Former owner of a 2000 SVT Contour
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