No you need to run the 2.5 heads for the watter pump. On the Tauri they are on the front and on the 2.5 it is driven off the back of the cam.

The block is notched so that the snout of the starter will sit correctly.


The major thing about the pre 01 engines is that the block has an extra set of drianback holes. The heads don't. You can put drainback holes in tho by drilling in the side of the head. Oiling issues are pretty big on these engines. Depending on how crazy you want to get with this, you might want to take the crank out and have it pollished. Take advantage of the oil to cool the bottom end. Might also want to port out the pressure releif valve on the oil pump. The pump will deliver oil to the heads much faster than it can return it. After 20-30 seconds after startup, I have 80+ PSI of oil pressure. I've heard of 100+.


Most people will try an persuade you to do an 01+ swap. That way you have the 3l valves already in and you don't need to do as much work.

But if you want to do a hybrid (2.5 heads 3.0 block) there are many of us that will guide you.

BTW you will also need to probably use the 2.5 oil pan and drill another hole for the last bolt to line up. Dunno about an auto.....


Might also want to look into a Toesen/Quaife. (once again dunno if this applies to the CD4E).


Sounds like you should have no problem with this project.

It's a piece of cake.



Mike


The ONLY 96 (engine) 3L Build 'em fast. Spray 'em faster. ricehatersclub.com