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#1539300 04/04/06 05:48 PM
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Alright Guys!!!!!
This Is Being Made Way Too Complicated. If I Read This Thread Right, I Believe All You Have Done Is Broken One Of The Shift Cable Ends. I Will Go Back And ReRead This Thread Again. You Lost Forward Gears After You Launched Hard Correct?? Sorry I Just Read This Whole Thread In About 2 Minutes. I Would Pull Your Driver Wheel And Fender Liner And Check On The Shift Tower To See If One Of The Cable Ends Is Hanging Off. Does Your Shifter Assembly Feel Loose Inside The car When You Move The Shifter Forward And Back?? Let Me Know. I'll Check Back Tomorrow.


CSVT E0 3L 14.5 @ 94mph, Stock Intake, Stock Exhaust minus Resonator, CEL, And Broken Pass. Side CV...Untuned.
#1539301 04/04/06 06:10 PM
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Did you ever study english in school? Shure looks like you didn't. Must Be Fun To Hold Shift Key Down Every Time You Type A Word.

#1539302 04/04/06 06:12 PM
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The shifter doesn't feel sloppy really.

What I think happened is that I broke an axle plan and simple, I will find out more tonight.

Terry suggests I send him the trans due to there being metal shavings from the broken axle.

What a great guy he is he even offered to go through the trans for free.

All I have to do is pay for shipping.
The down times gonna hurt but what the hell.
I only work seven days a week.

I'll let you know tonight.


Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoSho:
Can u ask him to measure his shaft and compare it to your shaft?


#1539303 04/04/06 11:27 PM
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If it's just an axle, use a magnet and change the fluid!
Screw pulling it out.

As far as procedure, I'd stick a telescoping magnet in where the axles go and fish around. Then when I drained the fluid I'd stick it in there too.
Last, inspect the axle shaft first to see how clean of a break it was and how far into the splines it broke. It may be that it broke right at the edge of the splines where the oil seal rides. In that case, don't drain the fluid first, let the fluid push out the material through the axle holes when you finally pull the old axle out.

Heads up, youmany need to pull the passenger axle intermediate shaft to push out the piece of axle that is stuck in the shaft. IDK about the quaife but the torsen has a small hole in it that you could use a long punch to push the piece of axle out of the differential from the opposite side.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
#1539304 04/05/06 01:14 AM
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Originally posted by akrump47:
Did you ever study english in school? Shure looks like you didn't. Must Be Fun To Hold Shift Key Down Every Time You Type A Word.






Tony 1998 SVT Contour (B/MB) #542 3L 1998 SVT Contour (SF/MB) #1266 parts car 2000 SVT Contour (SF/MB) #1533 3L swap to begin!
#1539305 04/05/06 02:37 AM
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Originally posted by CSVT1214:
Originally posted by akrump47:
Did you ever study english in school? Shure looks like you didn't. Must Be Fun To Hold Shift Key Down Every Time You Type A Word.











Justin 1999 Ford SVT Contour (T-Red) Cardomain site
#1539306 04/05/06 12:25 PM
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Originally posted by warmonger:
If it's just an axle, use a magnet and change the fluid!
Screw pulling it out.

As far as procedure, I'd stick a telescoping magnet in where the axles go and fish around. Then when I drained the fluid I'd stick it in there too.
Last, inspect the axle shaft first to see how clean of a break it was and how far into the splines it broke. It may be that it broke right at the edge of the splines where the oil seal rides. In that case, don't drain the fluid first, let the fluid push out the material through the axle holes when you finally pull the old axle out.

Heads up, youmany need to pull the passenger axle intermediate shaft to push out the piece of axle that is stuck in the shaft. IDK about the quaife but the torsen has a small hole in it that you could use a long punch to push the piece of axle out of the differential from the opposite side.




.......shows that some owners
would put an expensive diff unit at risk Vs doing the
job correctly! It's half a**ed and the chances of
leaving debris in the diff very high. If you fully
understand the construction of an ATB diff you would
know that it is very easy for debris from the shaft to
make its way to the sun & planet gears and cause
damage. If the diff(Quaife ) still failed after this
poor attempt at removing the metal Quaife WOULD NOT
honor any warranty as the fault had not be caused by
their part. Bad post to encourage owners to risk such a
high cost component...not very smart at all.


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
#1539307 04/05/06 01:50 PM
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Originally posted by todras:
Originally posted by warmonger:
If it's just an axle, use a magnet and change the fluid!
Screw pulling it out.

As far as procedure, I'd stick a telescoping magnet in where the axles go and fish around. Then when I drained the fluid I'd stick it in there too.
Last, inspect the axle shaft first to see how clean of a break it was and how far into the splines it broke. It may be that it broke right at the edge of the splines where the oil seal rides. In that case, don't drain the fluid first, let the fluid push out the material through the axle holes when you finally pull the old axle out.

Heads up, youmany need to pull the passenger axle intermediate shaft to push out the piece of axle that is stuck in the shaft. IDK about the quaife but the torsen has a small hole in it that you could use a long punch to push the piece of axle out of the differential from the opposite side.




.......shows that some owners
would put an expensive diff unit at risk Vs doing the
job correctly! It's half a**ed and the chances of
leaving debris in the diff very high. If you fully
understand the construction of an ATB diff you would
know that it is very easy for debris from the shaft to
make its way to the sun & planet gears and cause
damage. If the diff(Quaife ) still failed after this
poor attempt at removing the metal Quaife WOULD NOT
honor any warranty as the fault had not be caused by
their part. Bad post to encourage owners to risk such a
high cost component...not very smart at all.





And on the flip side, this mysterious voice from heaven popping in an telling people they do half-assed work is just another ploy to mindfukk people into thinking that he is the ONLY one who can do work on these cars.

You may not charge him any more but it's like crack cocaine, get everyone sourcing through you so that you are the only dealer anyone thinks about. Maybe good business sense for you, but don't do it at my expense!

ANY person would be a fool to just yank a transmission without examing the damage, esp. when it is probably easily viewed from an exterior point. Period.
If the axle sheared then there are probably little to no pieces anyway, probably just the two surfaces.

I guarantee you your precious Ford Dealer techs would NOT be told to pull the whole transmission and tear it open if an axle sheared. The Ford Reps wouldn't even pay the dealer for that labor unless they had a good reason for it.
So don't try to take every opportunity to make me look bad that you can. You just make yourself look bad in the process. And don't talk to me about half-assed, I don't have things like Frankentrans under my belt nor do I have sometimes 8 month waits for me to produce work for another customer.


If this guy can't assess his transmission then he should pay to send it to you. If he can then he should do the examination and possibly follow my alternative...which is just all it is an alternative.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by warmonger:
(snip)
And on the flip side, this mysterious voice from heaven popping in an telling people they do half-assed work is just another ploy to mindfukk people into thinking that he is the ONLY one who can do work on these cars.


(snip)

ANY person would be a fool to just yank a transmission without examing the damage, esp. when it is probably easily viewed from an exterior point. Period.
If the axle sheared then there are probably little to no pieces anyway, probably just the two surfaces.

I guarantee you your precious Ford Dealer techs would NOT be told to pull the whole transmission and tear it open if an axle sheared. The Ford Reps wouldn't even pay the dealer for that labor unless they had a good reason for it.
So don't try to take every opportunity to make me look bad that you can. You just make yourself look bad in the process. And don't talk to me about half-assed, I don't have things like Frankentrans under my belt nor do I have sometimes 8 month waits for me to produce work for another customer.





All I will say is, and wheeeeeeee. Leaking Frankentrans reporting in!


Chris NJ 98.5 SVT Silver Frost
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Originally posted by Shaggy:
Originally posted by warmonger:
(snip)
And on the flip side, this mysterious voice from heaven popping in an telling people they do half-assed work is just another ploy to mindfukk people into thinking that he is the ONLY one who can do work on these cars.


(snip)

ANY person would be a fool to just yank a transmission without examing the damage, esp. when it is probably easily viewed from an exterior point. Period.
If the axle sheared then there are probably little to no pieces anyway, probably just the two surfaces.

I guarantee you your precious Ford Dealer techs would NOT be told to pull the whole transmission and tear it open if an axle sheared. The Ford Reps wouldn't even pay the dealer for that labor unless they had a good reason for it.
So don't try to take every opportunity to make me look bad that you can. You just make yourself look bad in the process. And don't talk to me about half-assed, I don't have things like Frankentrans under my belt nor do I have sometimes 8 month waits for me to produce work for another customer.





All I will say is, and wheeeeeeee. Leaking Frankentrans reporting in!




Ryan Trollin!
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