Actually, I've been looking at the responses and I'm quite suprised with all the negativity about it. It isn't that bad.
THe MAF location may only present a problem at idle but can be overcome with more tweaking. Of course the low airflow and the 90* turn are the reasons, but it is definitely workable I think. At cruise and full throttle it will work just fine because the air is forced anyway.
I wouldn't count it out until someone actually tests it.

I say this because of my experience working with some of the big Pro-M mafs and cut stock mafs.
You can get a decent tune but idle is the hardest due to the sampling tube configuration in them.
IMHO this would be easier to tune than both of those types I just mentioned even if it is not ideal.

Couple this thing with an decent tuner or an XCAL2, and proper injectors instead of all that FMU crap and it may be a decent performer, especially for an ATX!

I would rather just use a SCT PRP setup and spend some time tuning this in than to ever deal with a Vortec seal/jackshaft issue.

If you really want it to be finished off right, it needs a battery relocation and the addition of a water to air system like is on the ADC kits, only in front of the MAF and leaving the MAF where it is now. That would cool down the air making a blow through almost a non-issue, raise the power and reliability, and fix the 90* bend issue at the same time because the airflow would be straightened out completely after going through the intecooler cores.

o IMO "completing" this kit would solve all the issues noted and still make it available for the ATX car. Add an ATX 3L to the mix .... hmmm. Hope the transmission holds.



Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black