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CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
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That's not rust, the fittings are brass. That's sealant I had to use 'cause the intercooler threads were pretty stripped when I got it... 
Dan G. and his Cougar
Forged internal (Diamond & Pauter) full 3L, "Monster" Kinger F/I cut & P&P, T3/4 60 trim .82A/R ADC turbo, SPEC Stage 3, Torsen, Greddy Profec-B SPEC II, Apex'i Timer, Lots of Gauges!
Used to have: 3.0L SVT hybrid
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Let me see if I am reading what you're saying correctly....
When you tied the valve cover vents into the IAC, you were puffing blue smoke? Once you let them vent to atmosphere, it went away?
Right now that is how I have my valve cover vents (venting to atmosphere..) but I'd like to tie them into the intake with an oil seperator inline with a 1-way check valve.
2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone 
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CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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That's EXACTLY what I'm saying, 'cause that's EXACTLY what happened. Whenever you'd let off the gas, she'd suck oil mist and all the crankcase vapors it could through the IACV and right out the tailpipe.
Dan G. and his Cougar
Forged internal (Diamond & Pauter) full 3L, "Monster" Kinger F/I cut & P&P, T3/4 60 trim .82A/R ADC turbo, SPEC Stage 3, Torsen, Greddy Profec-B SPEC II, Apex'i Timer, Lots of Gauges!
Used to have: 3.0L SVT hybrid
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by TC'd Swazo:
Let me see if I am reading what you're saying correctly....
When you tied the valve cover vents into the IAC, you were puffing blue smoke? Once you let them vent to atmosphere, it went away?
Right now that is how I have my valve cover vents (venting to atmosphere..) but I'd like to tie them into the intake with an oil seperator inline with a 1-way check valve.
Valve cover vents have to be tied before the turbo inlet, NOT after the discharge tube! 
Otherwise yes, you will suck all kinds of oil!
The valve cover vents aren't really vents anyway. They are supposed to be the inlet for clean, already metered air to go into the heads and then down to the crankcase to flush out any fuel/oil vapor or blowby and pull it back into the engine to be burnt instead of let out to atmosphere.
Leaving the valve cover "vents" open to atmosphere does not stop this flow but it does allow non-metered air to be sucked in and throws off the Adaptability of the PCM.
WE all know the PCM has learning modes; well it uses some of the A/F values calculated from light load and idle to fill the cell values for higher load conditions.
So if you are fuggin up the values at idle like that then they are also screwing it up at moderate load when less PCV air is entering the engine.
Under boost the PCV closes off most of the air going back into the crankcase and any blowby pressure that builds up will push out the valve cover vents back into the intake BEFORE the turbo, and get sucked right on into the turbo and therefore into the engine and burnt. There will always be lower pressure right before the turbo so that there is no buildup of crankcase vapor under load.
See?
It is a win-win situation in all cases. Hook it up right.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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I have mine done into the intake after the turbo with an oil separator and a one way check valve...Although the car has only run a couple minutes (shut it down when I saw oil on the ground)
But I had mine into the intake before (1st set-up) with a check valve...it ran well..no smoke.
98 E0 SVT with some stuff
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Hard-core CEG'er
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A tad wound up there Tom?  Stazi has his venting to atmosphere and I have talked to others (Like Stilov) who've done it the same way I noted. But, I do see the advantages of your method. Thanks for going into painful detail 
2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by TC'd Swazo:
A tad wound up there Tom?
Stazi has his venting to atmosphere and I have talked to others (Like Stilov) who've done it the same way I noted.
But, I do see the advantages of your method. Thanks for going into painful detail
OMFG!!
Do it the way you want to but that is how it should be done and why.
LMAO, that one post and following psychobabble is going to haunt me....
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by stilov:
I have mine done into the intake after the turbo with an oil separator and a one way check valve...Although the car has only run a couple minutes (shut it down when I saw oil on the ground)
But I had mine into the intake before (1st set-up) with a check valve...it ran well..no smoke.
Well, as I said if the vents are hooked up anywhere after the turbo, check valve or not then the pressure in the crankcase will build up and that is to be avoided, esp. with turbo'd engines. Seals can blow out that way.
It must either be vented to atmosphere, a better idea but not the best, and in which case you draw in unmetered air at normal engine idle/cruise.
Or you hook it up before the turbo inducer for the reasons I discussed above.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Oh, and by the way I should point out that the amount of oil pulled in through this method is very small, almost nil when the engine is healthy. IF you have a lot of blow-by then it is NOT a healthy engine and you will want to vent them to atmosphere to keep from pushing excess oil into the intake. IMO that is the best way to tell the health of a turbo engine, check the blow-by at idle and look for signs/smells of oil burning. When my engine went bad the first time I had it turbo'd when the pistons cracked...it had enough blowby to be sucking serious oil into the engine through the pcv and pushing oil out the valve covers back into the intake and turbo. There was oil puddled int the turbo and some in the intercooler. There was enough back pressure under hard boost to push the dipstick out of the tube a little bit and start spitting oil on the engine and hood. 
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,970
Hard-core CEG'er
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Chalk it up to the internet if I've come off wrong. Tom, I do see that your method is ideal and I am planning on switching over to it once I have all the goodies to do so on hand. I too love the idea of a daily drivable DIY turbo system, and now you've even gone into a bit more detail which is always a good thing. I wish CEG had the stick poking smiley 
2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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