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Originally posted by SteedaSVTââ??¢:
Im wondering a few things?

#1 Can we get Cross Drilled Rotors? I like to stop faster!
#2 This adapter plate can we get color matched to the Calipers? Like red and stuff?
#3 What about Slotted/Cross Drilled for added stopping power?




STFU!

<high strung and ready to unload with guns blazin!>



Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by SteedaSVTââ??¢:
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by SteedaSVTââ??¢:
i just want it in the rear and Stazi knows that.


wow.




Sorry Ryan you where already taken by one of your Marine buddies,




LMAO ROFL on both these comments. Tears...
My wife came over to find out what was wrong with me.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by SteedaSVTââ??¢:
I was thinking the Same thing, Rara and I talked about it and if you have the 13" kit the Focus FSVT rotors on the Rear seems it would be a better option. Than the 280 CSVT rotors on the rear



For looks only.

Rara knows all about braking bias. On a nose heavy FWD car the rear brakes, at best, can generate 20% of the braking force. On a stock weight distribution Contour it is more like 15%.

This does not even take into consideration to caliper piston's ability to stop the rotors. (its force output) This is the reason I went with an overly aggressive pad choice on the rears. I wanted to make the most out of what the small stock rear caliper would give me.

ANY BRAKE SETUP CHANGE, from pro-fabbed kits to economy brake pads, is much more then a simple swap fest. The devil is always in the detail work. If you don't do your homework you normally end up with poor results. There are countless "big brake" upgrade kits out there that prove that fact over and over again.


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by SteedaSVTââ??¢:
Im wondering a few things?

#1 Can we get Cross Drilled Rotors? I like to stop faster!
#2 This adapter plate can we get color matched to the Calipers? Like red and stuff?
#3 What about Slotted/Cross Drilled for added stopping power?




STFU!

<high strung and ready to unload with guns blazin!>






YOU LOVE IT!!!!

Seriously though i was all about it then he said it was just plain metal color I need more BLING Factor


Ya We where talking about the 13" baer Kit and trying to figure out rear options and anything with the Stock rear cal's above the 280's is pretty much just looks, But if slotted/X-drilled and Zinc Plated, Looks would be Toight!

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Originally posted by Stazi:
chillax




Done..... as long as I gets me some stainless lines, I'll gladly STFU


2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by SteedaSVTââ??¢:
I was thinking the Same thing, Rara and I talked about it and if you have the 13" kit the Focus FSVT rotors on the Rear seems it would be a better option. Than the 280 CSVT rotors on the rear



For looks only.

Rara knows all about braking bias. On a nose heavy FWD car the rear brakes, at best, can generate 20% of the braking force. On a stock weight distribution Contour it is more like 15%.

This does not even take into consideration to caliper piston's ability to stop the rotors. (its force output) This is the reason I went with an overly aggressive pad choice on the rears. I wanted to make the most out of what the small stock rear caliper would give me.

ANY BRAKE SETUP CHANGE, from pro-fabbed kits to economy brake pads, is much more then a simple swap fest. The devil is always in the detail work. If you don't do your homework you normally end up with poor results. There are countless "big brake" upgrade kits out there that prove that fact over and over again.




Demon, you are mostly right here. But remember, once you have upgraded the fronts, you have shifted the brake bias to the front, potentially by a significant amount, which then needs to be balanced back to stock levels to make the best use of the full brake system. There are four key ways to affect the F/R bias of a brake system, and any of them can have a significant effect, so its not a terribly simple proposal in getting it all right.

First is proportioning, or rear line pressure proportioning. Some contours have a typical prop valve which limits rear line pressure, and some are controlled electronically by the ABS.
Second, is the torque lever arm, or basically the effective radius of the rotor (note, this is not the same as the actual radius of the rotor, but it depends on pad size as well)
Third is the friction co-efficient of the linings used. This one is difficult on a street car, because good data is hard to come by on most linings.
and Fourth is also system pressure, but more related to the caliper piston sizes relative to the master cylinder size. Most kit makers try not to change this much, as it will dramatically change pedal feel as well.

So, I'll tell you guys what, if I can dig up the info I need, I'll run some bias numbers today, and post the results. However, my gut feeling says the 300/280 combo will be a little more rear biased than stock, and a 330/300 combo will be about the same as stock, all depending on what linings are used.

Also, as a side note, swept area, and pad size (within reason) don't have a lot to do with overall braking power. These factors more come in to play when you start to consider fade, and pad life, and aesthetic concerns like Stazi mentioned.

On Edit - btw, Demon, I know I addressed the first comment directly to you, but the rest of the post is informational for the general public who may not know the fundamentals of a brake system design.

Last edited by Rara; 03/09/06 04:09 PM.

Balance is the Key. rarasvt@comcast.net
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ok dang it, for some reason I can't find the stock contour and FSVT piston sizes anywhere . . . I've managed to lose my notes on them, and can no longer look them up at Ford.

Anyone have them handy so I don't have to go pull my wheels off and measure?


Balance is the Key. rarasvt@comcast.net
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by SteedaSVTââ??¢:
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by SteedaSVTââ??¢:
i just want it in the rear and Stazi knows that.


wow.




Sorry Ryan you where already taken by one of your Marine buddies,




LMAO ROFL on both these comments. Tears...
My wife came over to find out what was wrong with me.


then she saw the beret on your head


Ryan Trollin!
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Very good summary. I'm not in the brake business so having all that info succinctly presented in a single post demonstrates the dynamics and complexities of braking systems, and offers up a lot of food for thought.

I've always been very conservative when it comes to a critical system like brakes. Never even attempted a pad/shoe change on any car until I was quite confident in my vehicle maintenance skills. Too much at stake for my liking. It speaks well of you gentlemen that I am comfortable enough in your expertise to consider modding my brakes based on your design work & research.

I offer my profound respect & thanks to all involved in this.


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by SteedaSVTââ??¢:
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by SteedaSVTââ??¢:
i just want it in the rear and Stazi knows that.


wow.




Sorry Ryan you where already taken by one of your Marine buddies,




LMAO ROFL on both these comments. Tears...
My wife came over to find out what was wrong with me.


then she saw the beret on your head




LOL USAF vs ARMY vs Marines in the same thread! LOL Whos in the Navy?

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