Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Brakes 300mm Front Rotors & 280mm Rear Rotors

Originally posted by warmonger:

---

Oh yeah, I forgot to comment on the hardware.
I don't like how those appear to be standard grade hardware and spacers. IDK if that is a prototype but I used much higher grade materials.

---

Tom...congrats on getting the kit built and working, I'd like to do the same but want even larger rear rotors to go with my 13" Bear brakes

Also...how are you making that statment on the hardware from that pic ? Bolt Grade ratings can only be determined from the top/end of the bolt head not the sides

example:

Originally posted by todras:

---

Shut it. Least I don't do it on purpose because I don't know any better like most of the young CEGers.

---

Originally posted by scottd60:

---

Originally posted by warmonger:

---

Oh yeah, I forgot to comment on the hardware.
I don't like how those appear to be standard grade hardware and spacers. IDK if that is a prototype but I used much higher grade materials.

---

Tom...congrats on getting the kit built and working, I'd like to do the same but want even larger rear rotors to go with my 13" Bear brakes

Also...how are you making that statment on the hardware from that pic ? Bolt Grade ratings can only be determined from the top/end of the bolt head not the sides

example:

---

Yes and no.
You're funny by the way, showing me what an SAE bolt hardness rating is.
Anyhow, you are right. I do not know for positive. On the other hand I looked at enough bolts during my years of experience and more recently during my hardware selection to realize how to identify what the higher metric grade bolts were commonly coated in. I learned that the various hardness bolts most of the time had different coloration that went along with the head style, and those look like grade 8.8 hardness bolts to me. Like JIS bolts and various flang-head bolts versus standard SAE and normal metric bolts all have different characteristics.
Those are plated the same and have the same head size (proportionately) as all the grade 8.8 bolts I saw. Now grade 8.8 has a high tensile strength, probably 85% or more of a 10.9 bolt, but they are not as hard. I went the extra mile to get bolts that were 10.9 and even 12.9 as well as with corrosion protection. The plate steel is not painted and is about the same type I'm using but much thinner, depending on the weight of the car maybe too thin.
For the contour I didn't take any chances since it is front heavy anyway.
The spacers he used are mild steel. I can see that from looking at them, and the nuts are standard plated.
The hardened nuts&bolts are plated in a different material and have a different color....or they are black....or they are stainless which is obvious to see.


Anyway, rest assured that these brakes are overbuilt to provide a high safety margin.
Also, I am not going to set final pricing; that is probably going to fall on Stazi. However, I can't imagine that the cost of all four wheels using this brake setup would be too different than just the cost of the FSVT kit.

Originally posted by warmonger:

---

You're funny by the way, showing me what an SAE bolt hardness rating is.
Anyhow, you are right. I do not know for positive. On the other hand I looked at enough bolts during my years of experience and more recently during my hardware selection to realize how to identify what the higher metric grade bolts were commonly coated in. I learned that the various hardness bolts most of the time had different coloration that went along with the head style, and those look like grade 8.8 hardness bolts to me.

---

Here's another view... Spot-on visual assessment btw.

Originally posted by warmonger:

---

Originally posted by scottd60:

---

Originally posted by warmonger:

---

Oh yeah, I forgot to comment on the hardware.
I don't like how those appear to be standard grade hardware and spacers. IDK if that is a prototype but I used much higher grade materials.

---

Tom...congrats on getting the kit built and working, I'd like to do the same but want even larger rear rotors to go with my 13" Bear brakes

Also...how are you making that statment on the hardware from that pic ? Bolt Grade ratings can only be determined from the top/end of the bolt head not the sides

example:

---

Yes and no.
You're funny by the way, showing me what an SAE bolt hardness rating is.
Anyhow, you are right. I do not know for positive. On the other hand I looked at enough bolts during my years of experience and more recently during my hardware selection to realize how to identify what the higher metric grade bolts were commonly coated in. I learned that the various hardness bolts most of the time had different coloration that went along with the head style, and those look like grade 8.8 hardness bolts to me. Like JIS bolts and various flang-head bolts versus standard SAE and normal metric bolts all have different characteristics.
Those are plated the same and have the same head size (proportionately) as all the grade 8.8 bolts I saw. Now grade 8.8 has a high tensile strength, probably 85% or more of a 10.9 bolt, but they are not as hard. I went the extra mile to get bolts that were 10.9 and even 12.9 as well as with corrosion protection. The plate steel is not painted and is about the same type I'm using but much thinner, depending on the weight of the car maybe too thin.
For the contour I didn't take any chances since it is front heavy anyway.
The spacers he used are mild steel. I can see that from looking at them, and the nuts are standard plated.
The hardened nuts&bolts are plated in a different material and have a different color....or they are black....or they are stainless which is obvious to see.


Anyway, rest assured that these brakes are overbuilt to provide a high safety margin.
Also, I am not going to set final pricing; that is probably going to fall on Stazi. However, I can't imagine that the cost of all four wheels using this brake setup would be too different than just the cost of the FSVT kit.

---

Tom,

Never questioned your knowledge on bolt ratings...the pic was just an example more for others that may be wondering what we are talking about. I was just curious a little about your statement. I'm very familiar with the ratings as well and have been working with all types of hardware for the last 27 years in my job. I have also seen lots of different finishes on high strength bolts some nice some junk just depends on the manufacturer. Yeah you are correct most tend to be black in color but not always some will be cadium plated too and they tend to look more on the cheap side if the plating is crap. No biggie like I said ...was just curious why you thought that

Personally I would avoid using multiple spacers if possible and try and make the whole thing out of one solid piece of aluminum and mil it to the needed shape. Also avoid using nuts if possible and drill and tap the adapter plate instead. I think it makes a much cleaner install, less parts, lighter and just as strong.

Kind of like the adapter used on the Bear kit (not that hard to make if you have a mil)â�?�¦1.150" thick aluminum plate w/through and taped holes plus black anodized to avoid corrosion.





here playing around with a friends Cobra calipers...same exact caliper as the Bear PBR caliper and by the way only needs a little modification on the carrier bracket to work

Originally posted by scottd60:

---

Personally I would avoid using multiple spacers if possible and try and make the whole thing out of one solid piece of aluminum and mil it to the needed shape. Also avoid using nuts if possible and drill and tap the adapter plate instead. I think it makes a much cleaner install, less parts, lighter and just as strong.

---

Originally posted by Thinkmoto:

---

Originally posted by scottd60:

---

Personally I would avoid using multiple spacers if possible and try and make the whole thing out of one solid piece of aluminum and mil it to the needed shape. Also avoid using nuts if possible and drill and tap the adapter plate instead. I think it makes a much cleaner install, less parts, lighter and just as strong.

---

If they already figured the offsets they need to make the bracket work they could easily make a AL or steel bracket to eliminate spacers and nuts. Or any knowledgeable machinist/ machine shop could make some in a few hours on a cnc/bridgeport.

---

Nice that nobody read the first post in this thread.

...and I quote this cool dude...

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

---

All the hardware is grade 10, the spacers are non-ferrous stainless steel, the front adapter bracket is 1/2" & the rear is 3/8â�?� - both high carbon plate steel.

---