Pull that motor and build the head first. You can swap the head into your car in a weekend easy after its built up. Then as funds are replinished you can build the block (ie stuff it with pauter rods/ diamond pistons, federa mogul bearings and ARP fasteners, ect) and swap it in later.

Like I said earlier, establish a power goal then work from there.

To be honest I don't know of anyone who has put a turbo on a freshly rebuilt motor with a nicely balanced/blue-printed stock rotating assembly. You could probably maintain 250 HP with a really nice tourque curve with stock components as long as its put together really well. Don't settle for anything less than .25 gram tolerance on the balancing job. The stock crank is plenty stout for any power level that is streetable.

As far as parts sources, check the site sponsors on Focaljet.com(focus valves/valve guides/springs and retainers go right in). For cams contact Rob at zxtuner.com I think he can still get the cams for the hydraulic lifters.
For stuff like cam/valve seals and head gaskets go with Motorcraft or felpro.

For the build process you could do it yourself, but unless you have a hot acid dip tank or a hot solvent parts washer, and all the equipment to install new valve guides and seats; it's probably best left to the professionals.


Ohsigmachi '96 GL MTX Zetec --I don't won't to hurt you, but it's still on my list of things to do.-- View projectSlippery Slope