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Pull that motor and build the head first. You can swap the head into your car in a weekend easy after its built up. Then as funds are replinished you can build the block (ie stuff it with pauter rods/ diamond pistons, federa mogul bearings and ARP fasteners, ect) and swap it in later.

Like I said earlier, establish a power goal then work from there.

To be honest I don't know of anyone who has put a turbo on a freshly rebuilt motor with a nicely balanced/blue-printed stock rotating assembly. You could probably maintain 250 HP with a really nice tourque curve with stock components as long as its put together really well. Don't settle for anything less than .25 gram tolerance on the balancing job. The stock crank is plenty stout for any power level that is streetable.

As far as parts sources, check the site sponsors on Focaljet.com(focus valves/valve guides/springs and retainers go right in). For cams contact Rob at zxtuner.com I think he can still get the cams for the hydraulic lifters.
For stuff like cam/valve seals and head gaskets go with Motorcraft or felpro.

For the build process you could do it yourself, but unless you have a hot acid dip tank or a hot solvent parts washer, and all the equipment to install new valve guides and seats; it's probably best left to the professionals.


Ohsigmachi '96 GL MTX Zetec --I don't won't to hurt you, but it's still on my list of things to do.-- View projectSlippery Slope
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Ed6407 Offline OP
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I don't have ALOT of money, but I still wannu spend the money because the motor in my '97 has 165,000+ and I'm sure the thing could last forever if I wanted it too, but I think just incase something were to happen, puttin money into the car I have would be just as much as buying another good used car. Atleast from around here. As far as dipping the parts and getting them coated, is it necisary? Dipping obviously cleans it off but what would the coatings do for me? How much does it normally cost to have everything dipped and then coated like that? Also balancing and blue printing necisary? I know for sure that can be some money. I know the thing would run like a champ but I'm not gunna race the car so.

Last edited by Ed6407; 03/03/06 03:47 AM.

'97 Contour GL MTX Blue Stereo: Pioneer Headunit, Pioneer 6x8 3-way all around, MTX 421d Mono Amp, 2 10" MTX Thunder 5500's, Custom Split Box, 1.5 farad capacitor
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At my local machine shope complete Balancing within .25 gram and piston crown deburing was $340

1) spin balance Crank, flywheel, and crank pulley
2) debur and smooth piston crowns
3) match weights of all rods and pistons

All my parts were new after market so no hot tank, but I think its runs $35/hr

As for coatings and their purposes and prices check Swain Techniques


Ohsigmachi '96 GL MTX Zetec --I don't won't to hurt you, but it's still on my list of things to do.-- View projectSlippery Slope
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Alright, coming close to making final decisions. One more thing, my dad says we'll need to yank the motor from underneath the car. Only problem is, we don't have a way of doing that. Does it HAVE to come from underneath or is there another way?


'97 Contour GL MTX Blue Stereo: Pioneer Headunit, Pioneer 6x8 3-way all around, MTX 421d Mono Amp, 2 10" MTX Thunder 5500's, Custom Split Box, 1.5 farad capacitor
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Pull it out the top.


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It can be taken out from either top or bottom. You DO have to pull the transmission from the bottom if I recall correctly.


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Ohsigmachi,
How much would cylinder work cost?

shamoon


96 GL-Sport 2.0L, MTX Bernardo Bourges' CTA CAI, Dmitri's SVT E0s rims, 205/55R-16, Dunlop SPs.
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I'm pretty sure the tranny can go out the top but I believe only if you're pulling it with the engine.


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Originally posted by ed6407:
Alright, coming close to making final decisions. One more thing, my dad says we'll need to yank the motor from underneath the car. Only problem is, we don't have a way of doing that. Does it HAVE to come from underneath or is there another way?




You can pull it either way. Pulling through the top just requires you to get under the car and get all the connections to the subframe unbolted and the axles out of the tranny. It's easier with the intake/exhaust manifolds completey removed and the cylinder head on. Oh and remove the AC compressor, makes clearing everything a little easier. Of course the hood should be off also.



Originally posted by shamun:
Ohsigmachi,
How much would cylinder work cost?

shamoon




Cylinder head or cylinder bore/hone?


Ohsigmachi '96 GL MTX Zetec --I don't won't to hurt you, but it's still on my list of things to do.-- View projectSlippery Slope
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Cylinder head work. Porting, polishing, and whatever else a head job consists of. Just curious, because I found a website at:
http://www.accordperformance.com/complete-head-package.html

They provide a big bore throttle body, smoothed out. They do the head work and give new (regrinds?) cams.
The company started as an Accord tuner, but have branched out to domestics. Is anyone interested in trying to get volume discounts from them?
Any thoughts?


96 GL-Sport 2.0L, MTX Bernardo Bourges' CTA CAI, Dmitri's SVT E0s rims, 205/55R-16, Dunlop SPs.
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