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Originally posted by mean'tour:
Originally posted by Cobra:
<b>I hope you're thinking of something else</b>, because the TPS is mounted on the throttle body. There's no need to remove the tranny to replace it. Should take under 2 minutes to replace. To check it mecahnically, remove it and check to see that the part that looks like a flat head screwdriver moves freely. I'm not sure how to tell if its fried electrically.
I hope so too! But those are the symptoms that I had, the random dying... The description my mechanic gave was that the computer couldn't read the engine speed or something, and got confused. Maybe it was the TSS? Tranmission Speed Sensor or something? It was several years ago. Whatever they did fixed it.
Any photos of this TPS? Is it a part you can just get at AZone? Or would I have to go to Ford?
Thanks! Is
Your car doesn't have TSS (Turbine Speed Sensor?) Only found on ATX.
Only thing I can think of is that they replaced the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). Original design used a plastic pin on the sensor. Over time, the pin would sometimes break. Most cases, you unscrew it and use something to grab the pin out of the hole.
But other times the pin falls into the tranny and tranny needs to be removed. 
The TPS is circled in red:
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BTW, what kind of plug wires are those? 
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yup, that's the TPS. You should be able to get it anywhere. I prefer Robbins Auto. They actually had a headlight switch for my old Grand Marquis in stock when it pooped on me!! From then on I've gone to them for the hard to find non-ford parts.
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dont forget there is a different TPS for SVT and non-SVT TBs!
they rotate in different directions.
someone had an issue after doing TB optimizing with the TPS and thats when we figured out there was a different one for each.
NY State Trooper: So what makes your car so special to have SVT all over it?
Me: Er...It was made by Fords SPECIAL Vehicle Team?
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MUST SELL - ECM computer new for a 98 V6 mtx + pats
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Originally posted by mean'tour:
Ford Racing 9mm.
There has been problems reported with Ford Racing wires in the past. Bad idle, misfires, etc. Most common seen is just overall early failure. (i.e. under 10k miles)
Recommended wires are Magnecor 8.5mm or OEM Motorcraft.
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All right. So new problem or maybe symptom of same problem.
This morning at stops (not all stops, but maybe half) the idle would go all over the place. As it was coming down it would hit 1000, then drop to 500 (and I'm thinking it's going to die) then it would spike up and finally settle in at the usual 750 idle.
Is that the TPS? (please say yes, please say yes). How hard is that to change? Any special tools? I haven't had a chance to lift the hood and take a look at it yet, it'll probably be obvious.
Last edited by mean'tour; 03/10/06 02:28 PM.
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well I am not possitive but I do know a bad IAC will cause the car to stall, but more often then not that also creates the moose
the TPS is on the side of the tb, so you need to pull the tb off and it is two bolts that hold it on, bu tbe careful as they maybe dificult to get out
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it could also be a dirty EGR system. The valve might have alot of carbon on it and therefore is moving sluggish or maybe is not making a very good seal when it closes. Alother possibility is that the EGR ports in the intake manifold are pretty well choked with deposits. The EGR is supposed to be closed at idle or anytime the throttle is closed but if it is leaking exhasut gasses into the intake air stream it will cause the engine to run as if it had a rich fuel air mixture and the oxygen sensor readings will agree with that. Therefore, the computer will control the injectors to inject less fuel to bring the fuel mixture to "acceptable" levels. At idle the airflow through the engine is so little that even a very small leak of exhaust gasses into the intake stream will casue an enrichening effect so stong that after you lean the fuel mixture so it is equalized with the ammount of available oxygen the mixture will be so lean it may not be able to burn and the engine will slow down or try to stall. The computer will then open the IAC valve to let in more air, inject a little more fuel and suddenly the air/fuel mixture equalizes and the engine revs quickly, faster than the IAC valve can react to maintain an idle of around 700 to 750rpm. Either the EGR or the IAC vavles can cause a similar problem. Both of the vavles have corresponding ports built into the intake manifold and both of these ports, especially the EGR, can become dirty or even partially blocked and lead to problems like you're describing. I'd like to suggest that you start out with a complete upper intake manifild cleaning and decarbonization. If you're doing it yourself you'll want to pick up some gaskets first, throttle body, IAC valve, EGR valve and upper intake manifold to lower intake manifold gaskets before you start this though. There is a complete how-to write up in the how to section of the site here and here
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Originally posted by BrApple:
well I am not possitive but I do know a bad IAC will cause the car to stall, but more often then not that also creates the moose
the TPS is on the side of the tb, so you need to pull the tb off and it is two bolts that hold it on, but be careful as they maybe dificult to get out.
Allright, I'll try that. Darn ignorance, I hate it when it shows but... What is the IAC? Where is it, how much, how hard to replace?
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