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Originally posted by erb13:
... Your post stated that if the voltage of the downstream O2 sendor were dampened that it was probably not a major problem and just drive it for a while. I am not sure I understand the term "dampened". Do you mean the voltage levels should oscillate at lower levels than the upstream sensor or the switching speed should be slower than the upstream sensor? Or something else.

erb13
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I think what Big Jim means by dampened is "a low switch frequency". Read this TSB (especially Section F3 and figure 5). The switching speed of the lower O2 sensor should be much slower than the upstream sensor for an efficient catalytic converter. When the lower O2 sensor switch frequency gets close to that of the upper O2 sensor, it indicates an inefficient cat.

http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/TSB0197HO2SServiceTips.htm


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Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by erb13:
... Your post stated that if the voltage of the downstream O2 sendor were dampened that it was probably not a major problem and just drive it for a while. I am not sure I understand the term "dampened". Do you mean the voltage levels should oscillate at lower levels than the upstream sensor or the switching speed should be slower than the upstream sensor? Or something else.

erb13
98 SVT totally stock



I think what Big Jim means by dampened is "a low switch frequency". Read this TSB (especially Section F3 and figure 5). The switching speed of the lower O2 sensor should be much slower than the upstream sensor for an efficient catalytic converter. When the lower O2 sensor switch frequency gets close to that of the upper O2 sensor, it indicates an inefficient cat.

http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/TSB0197HO2SServiceTips.htm




Good question. Also a good answer.

If the switching rate of the downstream oxygen sensor too closely mirrors the upstream oxygen sensor, the cat isn't doing much and the ineffecient cat code is set.

Did I muddy anything else up here? If there are still questions, please ask.


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This is great to have this type of advise and help availible, thank you to everyone that is contributing!

I am happy to swap out the plugs and wires, seeing it is about that time... My air filter is a fresh Amsoil performance filter, and an oil change would not hurt... Even though I am running amsoil full synthetic oil.

Other than unplugging the battery for a little while, is there other ways or a specific manner that I should reset the CEL...? I would like to see that light not only go away, but would like to know if some of the fixes are impacting the running performance..

It is great to hear that there are so many other good do-it yourself options, seeing the dealer option is just not something that I want to deal with anymore.


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Originally posted by Rubs:
Even though I am running amsoil full synthetic oil.

Other than unplugging the battery for a little while, is there other ways or a specific manner that I should reset the CEL...?




First...don't change your oil unless its time to mileage wise...Amsoil is too expensive to throw away.

Second...Autozone can use their scanner and clear your codes. If the codes do comeback, it usually take a couple of drive cycles.

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Originally posted by Rubs:
...Other than unplugging the battery for a little while, is there other ways or a specific manner that I should reset the CEL...? ...



Instead of unplugging battery, you can remove key, unplug Fuses 4 and 11 from the Power Distribution Box next to the battery (for one or two minutes). That should reset the PCM. Note that the code will come back eventually unless you fix the problem.


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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