Holy s**t, Batman! The Ford manual specifically states that the Ford alignment pin set MUST be used to reinstall either the front or rr subframes after removal. As I recall, the letters are printed in bold typeface to emphasize the point.
I know mechanics/technicians cut corners but if the dealer admits it and is telling you that, what does it say about their work?
I'd suggest you avoid them like the plague.
Redcoat Raceworks. Performance parts and custom fabricating for Contours, Mystiques and Cougars. Specializing in chassis and suspension parts. Custom end links, control arms, strut tower bars, engine torque braces, etc.
Originally posted by Bradness: Holy s**t, Batman! The Ford manual specifically states that the Ford alignment pin set MUST be used to reinstall either the front or rr subframes after removal. As I recall, the letters are printed in bold typeface to emphasize the point.
I know mechanics/technicians cut corners but if the dealer admits it and is telling you that, what does it say about their work?
I'd suggest you avoid them like the plague.
You've gotta be kidding.
You have no idea what technicians that are in the trenches everyday learn far beyond what's in the manual. When a technician learns an effective way around something, he isn't likely to spend a half hour or more hunting down an obscure special tool. Ford's system of cataloging and storing special tools absolutely sucks. The General Motors system makes more sense.
Looks like I'll be pulling mine...doing some repair..and then re-installing it myself.
This weekend I went to loosen up my Ausie sway bar bushings, in order to get some grease around the bar and take care of some really loud creaking, and the bolt head on the driver's side rear snapped right off. this was with a measly 3/8" socket!
And this is on a subframe that TH dropped...boxed in...installed my bar...then re-installed onto my car.
I would make an atempt to drill/tap. Maybe could find a small drill. In some rare cases I've drilled threw a bolt then reversed and have the bolt spin out... Spray it up first with PB. I know it's tight in there for welding but you might be able to save yourself from taking it off.
JD a.k.a Fingers
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'98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k
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just less of a chance with a 2.0
Originally posted by jd28: I would make an atempt to drill/tap. Maybe could find a small drill. In some rare cases I've drilled threw a bolt then reversed and have the bolt spin out... Spray it up first with PB. I know it's tight in there for welding but you might be able to save yourself from taking it off.
Originally posted by jd28: I would make an atempt to drill/tap. Maybe could find a small drill. In some rare cases I've drilled threw a bolt then reversed and have the bolt spin out... Spray it up first with PB. I know it's tight in there for welding but you might be able to save yourself from taking it off.
There's a good idea..I'll try that 1st.
Thanks
If that bolt doesn't come out right away get some easy outs and try that too. Then I'd drill it out completely and retap it place. Make sure you lube all the bolts when reassembling.
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