Originally posted by Tourige:
Originally posted by Berkel:
Originally posted by Avey:

Heh I was saying that a couple weeks ago when I did mine. Although I would have paid three times as much back then so it was worth the wait. Oh and yeah, bring something comfy to lay down on, you'll be on it for hours and hours.......and hours.

It's not "hard" just time consumming, if you don't run into any problems it should take 6-8 hours.


What if I don't have much mechanical experience..

Would it be more worth it to set aside a few days and tackle it on my own or else just pay someone to do it right?

Thinking about doing headers and a trubendz catback at the same time.



It dosent take much mechanical know-how, basically you raise the car up on jackstands, remove both front wheels, get a creeper or something to lie on and just go nuts
getting torque on any of the nuts is REALLY hard, and guess what, its harder when you have to remove the studs after. Your arms will kill from holding stuff up all day for sure.

There is one thing i did that i dont wish anyone to do, i didnt tighten all the header bolts 100%, i got all the bottom ones and 2 of the top ones on both headers, but the others were IMPOSSIBLE to get at, the design of the Weapon R headers made it so i couldent get at them, let alone get any torque on them.



Did you slip a long extension in between the subframe and the body of the car (around the steering rack) and use a swivel joint on the end of your extension? You have less than an inch of space but it is enough to get a 3/8" extension through. Also I didn't need to remove any studs off the head to slip the header down, maybe the SVT has something that gets in the way? I also didn't need to remove the drivers side wheels but that's not a big deal.

I know the rad is thicker so maybe that doesn't help and maybe on the rear something involving the oil cooler gets in the way? I also undid the EGR tube out of the EGR valve and left it on the read manifold, seemed to be easier.

I can't comment on the Weapong R headers as I have MSDS headers but I beleive they are nearly identical hence the reasons they are no longer able to sell them.

For me is was raise the car up on jack stands as high as you can, remove the passenger side wheel and splash cover. From under the car loosen the three bolts holding the alternator to the alternator bracket, leave the wires connected and let it sit there loose. For the rear manifold undo the bottom bolts with a swivel joint, slip the long extension over the subframe and get the top bolts, undo the EGR tube from the EGR valve up top. Now for the front manifold grab the top bolts with a wrench from the top and with a ratchet from the bottom of the car. Of course you would have already removed the y-pipe and o2 sensors etc.

Took me 9 hours with grabbing food and propane for my heater, heh still not proud of that. I had my engine and subframe dropped in about 6 hours when I did my 3L swap.


96 Mystique Black On Tan V6 MTX Port Matched 01 3L, 2.5L Cams, 2.5" Exhaust Optimized y-pipe, SVT clutch, Superchips, 3L split port LIM, SVT UIM, Intake, Mustang 65mm TB, MSDS Headers. Eibach Pro Kit, Torsen Diff., Ford Racing 17" Wheels.