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Joined: May 2000
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I have no life
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I have no life
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Yikes on drilling the block.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
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That's the best spot, better than the pan. Why? 1) you are always higher than the oil level, so it will drain without allowing a backfill of the oil line. 2) the pan can be dropped without having to mess with lines. 3) The block is thicker than the pan, so it is tapped easier with less chance of cracking, AND there are more threads (less chance of leakage). This is for you Todd 
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
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This is about the only spot on the block that I would attach to because it's the only galley that protrudes from the rest of the block on that side of the engine. I decided against tapping the pan for the reasons that Stazi noted. Also, I could always go with a 90 degree end and route the line just like the oil cooler lines. However, since my headers are based on the stock manifolds, I have no doubts about the clearance. Even if there was a clearance issue between the headers/drain tube, I have that covered as well. The headers are going to be JetHot 2000 coated, along with the up-pipe/down-pipe and turbine housing ... this engine bay is going to remain as cool as possible while having a turbo under there ... so, even if the SS braided line did touch the headers, it wouldn't melt the tubing behind the brading because the headers will be much cooler than normal.
Last edited by fastcougar; 02/28/06 03:06 PM.
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Originally posted by Stazi:
That's the best spot, better than the pan. Why?
1) you are always higher than the oil level, so it will drain without allowing a backfill of the oil line.
2) the pan can be dropped without having to mess with lines.
3) The block is thicker than the pan, so it is tapped easier with less chance of cracking, AND there are more threads (less chance of leakage).
This is for you Todd
The block skirt is part of the strength of the engine rotating assembly, the pan has very little. Holes are stress risers and although it is likely that it is low there, I just wondered what would happen with regard to cracks and such.
I tapped the pan because the top edge of the pan always remains above oil level except under momentary circumstances and even then there is plenty of room in the tube to accept continued oil drainage. The car levels out and no issues.
There hasn't been a problem with drainage into the top of the pan. The only problems I've seen is not restricting high pressure oil going into the turbo.
Also, if there is a leak or if servicing is required, it is easier to unbolt the tube from the pan. If something happens, a pan is pretty cheap.
After two and a half years with it, I found no problems. Also, even with six full quarts of oil the drain is still high enough.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
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OP
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by Stazi:
That's the best spot, better than the pan. Why?
1) you are always higher than the oil level, so it will drain without allowing a backfill of the oil line.
2) the pan can be dropped without having to mess with lines.
3) The block is thicker than the pan, so it is tapped easier with less chance of cracking, AND there are more threads (less chance of leakage).
This is for you Todd
The block skirt is part of the strength of the engine rotating assembly, the pan has very little. Holes are stress risers and although it is likely that it is low there, I just wondered what would happen with regard to cracks and such.
I tapped the pan because the top edge of the pan always remains above oil level except under momentary circumstances and even then there is plenty of room in the tube to accept continued oil drainage. The car levels out and no issues.
There hasn't been a problem with drainage into the top of the pan. The only problems I've seen is not restricting high pressure oil going into the turbo.
Also, if there is a leak or if servicing is required, it is easier to unbolt the tube from the pan. If something happens, a pan is pretty cheap.
After two and a half years with it, I found no problems. Also, even with six full quarts of oil the drain is still high enough.
I dig it...
those are my reasons for the pan as well.
and fast coug...I forgot you were building your own headers...I am using the MSDS ones that are modified and I think it would be tough to get it there on mine.
98 E0 SVT with some stuff
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i used the top of the pan as well, pretty much in the same spot as tom, but i had my drain pipe welded onto my pan.
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is there a universal fitting i can install into my pan with a plug blocking it while the motor is out. im gonna put a thousand miles on my motor N/A before fabbing the turbo kit, and id like to attempt it without removing the engine. doing it now would be easier than trying to add it later
Russell
Oval Port 3L Nearly Done
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Originally posted by Russell-3L:
is there a universal fitting i can install into my pan with a plug blocking it while the motor is out. im gonna put a thousand miles on my motor N/A before fabbing the turbo kit, and id like to attempt it without removing the engine. doing it now would be easier than trying to add it later
ick...would take more time putting a turbo kit on with the motor in than to just pull the motor again and bolt it on. 
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i plan on using an untouched MSDS rear header, modifying the front, and making a custom y-pipe and up-pipe not to mention all the intake and down pipe intercooler etc
Russell
Oval Port 3L Nearly Done
MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
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It's a 1/4" walled oil return channel ... give me areak on the structural integrity lecture 
Last edited by fastcougar; 03/01/06 06:47 AM.
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