Originally posted by volcar:
Try this, remove the vacuum line to the EGR valve & plugged the hose with a golf tee. If it's the EGR value that�s causing the problem the misfire will continue & means that the EGR valve is defective. If it continues to idle badly reconnect the vacuum line & remove the electrical connector for the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) if the idle stays bad replace the EVR unit. However, if the idle get's better replace the Back Pressure Transducer (DPFE) unit. Hope it helps




Do I remove the vacuum line to the EGR while the engine is running, or do I remove it first, then start the car?

So I found this procedure here in a search:

Quote:


Modified test for EGR (per Ray and Steve):
(remove the green vacuum hose from the top, be careful as it is brittle, and apply a vacuum (attached a small hose and suck on itl) to see if the car stumbles while running. This indicates a properly operating EGR.

Does it work properly?

NO: The EGR valve is defective or the EGR passages are clogged. Check (and clean, if needed) the passages behind the Throttle Body. Purchase a TB gasket, and remove the air plenum (rubber accordion tube) then remove the TB. Clean the EGR passage (small cut-out in the outer edge of the TB's mating surface) really well, install a new gasket and re-attach the TB. If the passages are clear, the EGR valve is defective. While rare, they do fail.

YES: The EGR valve works and the passages are clear. The likely fault is the DPFE sensor or its sample hoses, followed by the EVR solenoid or the PCM. May also be caused by interconnecting vacuum lines or electrical connections.







So when I am sucking on the tube, am I closing the valve or opening it?

Last edited by jborge; 02/17/06 03:58 AM.
------------------------------------------------- 1996SE sports package, Duratec MTX No mods yet. 80K Kilometers. ------------------------------------------------- Wife has 1996GL Zetec ATX.