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From my 96 service manual:
The rear wheel bearings are of a cartridge design and are pregreased, sealed and require no scheduled maintenance. The wheel bearings are preset and cannot be adjusted. If a bearing is disassembled for any reason, the wheel hub must be replaced as a unit. No individual service seals, rollers or races are available. The hub nut torque of 290 N-m(181 lb-ft) restricts bearing/hub relative movement and maintains axial position of the wheel hub.

Just remove the nut and slide the hub/bearing off the rear spindle. You don't need an "arbor" press. See # 3 below.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=213787&chapter=DP2FM0&appSectionid=24&groupid=20135&subgroupid=60763&componentid=0&make=10&model=Contour&year=1996&graphicID=FMP100&callout=3&catalogid=1

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thankyou.


Ohsigmachi '96 GL MTX Zetec --I don't won't to hurt you, but it's still on my list of things to do.-- View projectSlippery Slope
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Yes, the large nut is behind the dust cover. Although wobble is indicative of bad bearings the correct way to ascertain their condition is to spin them. They shouldn't be loose, rough or make "bad" noises. Unless you're experienced with the way a bearing should feel, it's difficult to know when they're starting to go. Simplest way is to have a new bearing and spin it on your finger, then test the worn one to feel/hear the difference. Obviously, this is not always possible.

A prime example is the serpentine belt tensioner bearing and the idler bearing. Almost every one I look at (especially the idler bearing) is worn and needs replacement. They will continue to rotate for some time without the telltale "noise" but when that happens it's a quick trip to the mechanic.

Do not powder coat a sealed bearing (like our throttle bodies) as the temps req'd for powder coating (450F) will cook the seal too.


Redcoat Raceworks. Performance parts and custom fabricating for Contours, Mystiques and Cougars. Specializing in chassis and suspension parts. Custom end links, control arms, strut tower bars, engine torque braces, etc.
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Originally posted by eepals:
Just remove the nut and slide the hub/bearing off the rear spindle. You don't need an "arbor" press. See # 3 below.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=213787&chapter=DP2FM0&appSectionid=24&groupid=20135&subgroupid=60763&componentid=0&make=10&model=Contour&year=1996&graphicID=FMP100&callout=3&catalogid=1




Although I didn't quote the manual, I believe I said that already.

Good luck with that nut and the TQ req'd to get it off!


Redcoat Raceworks. Performance parts and custom fabricating for Contours, Mystiques and Cougars. Specializing in chassis and suspension parts. Custom end links, control arms, strut tower bars, engine torque braces, etc.
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Originally posted by Bradness:
Although I didn't quote the manual, I believe I said that already.

Good luck with that nut and the TQ req'd to get it off!







Big vice + even bigger impact wrench = 10 minutes


Ohsigmachi '96 GL MTX Zetec --I don't won't to hurt you, but it's still on my list of things to do.-- View projectSlippery Slope
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well, old bearings are off. Of note a cold chisel with a sharp tip is really handy when taking off the spindle nut dust cover (worked much better that a flat head screw driver). A little two leg hub puller took the hubs right off.

So, I'm still looking for a candidate for the knucle work mentioned in the first post (powder and poly bushings)...


Ohsigmachi '96 GL MTX Zetec --I don't won't to hurt you, but it's still on my list of things to do.-- View projectSlippery Slope
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