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Originally posted by Rob___:
To tell you the truth, if I can do it myself I would like too ...as I know it's done correctly and if I find parts (while the stuffs apart) which need replacing I can go get them, ...
Good man! If you've done an alternator, you can do this! Easier access - especially since you have the socket extensions from the alt R&R. You just might have to wrestle with a couple of bolts. Things get a bit rusty around the hub assemblies. Some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster on key areas the night before will do wonders to make it easier.
You can usually "borrow" strut-spring compressors from an auto parts store. Get the spring compressors with the safety catches. Can't be too careful when dealing with that kind of stored energy. You might need to buy a torx head socket for the pinch bolt (Liquid Wrench target) on the hub assembly that holds the ball joint - $5 if you buy a gold plated one. You might also need to buy a plastic or rubber mallet - $5 for a gold plated one (or just use a freakin' hammer). And lastly, a 6mm allen key socket for the top of the strut rod. Gotta prevent it from rotating while you tighten up the retaining nut with an 18mm box wrench.
The install is actually MUCH EASIER than the removal of the old struts & springs. You'll be stunned at how simple it really is - just a little elbow grease. The toughest part is compressing the old springs so you can use the perches. I didn't need the spring compressors when assembling my BAT kit or my Koni kit.
With all the money you save on labor, you can get some additional parts. LCAs if you haven't done them. Check the rubber bushings in the LCAs for cracking & separation. Great thing about new LCAs is you also get new ball joints in the assembly from BAT. 
Last edited by TourDeForce; 02/16/06 03:05 AM.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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How did you do it? With the use of a Haynes manual? Is there a thread on here somewhere?
LCA = Lower Control Arm? How much are those?
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Haynes manual. The LCAs (Lower Control Arms) can be found from BAT also. $55 each for the two bolt type, 4 bolt type are more. You'll need to check your '98.5 car to see if they have two bolts or four. The process appears to be rather straight-forward, but access to one of the bolts on the driver side is limited, so some creativity will be required for the install. Maybe I shouldn't have said anything about LCAs...  Again, if you've done the alternator, an LCA won't be out of your skill range, just a bit irritating & some extra work because of the bolt access. Might be better to leave it for another weekend so you'll have some time to enjoy the new strut/spring setup before diving into the car again... You'll get more familiar with all the parts before having to tackle the project that way.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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If I find I want to replace the LCA's after the front strut install do I have to remove the structs again or is it easier to get at than having to remove everything?
I'm thinking...I may be wrong, but could the sloppiness be due to the shock/struts be messed up?
I never had this car from new, but when I got it (27,000km) I thought when driving at about 60kmh / 37.5mph the steering was quite direct...now it seems there's a bit of play...I can move the steering wheel, say about the distance from 12 o'clock to 1 o'clock without any direction change...or very, very little.
WHat do you think?
Rob
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I really can't say without looking at the car.
Best thing I can tell you Rob is get at the suspension this weekend. You've gotta spend a little time with your vehicle. Jack the front of the car up & while the tire is up in the air, grab the tire top & bottom to see if there is any play, then try it from side to side by grabbing the tire front & back. If you get some movement or clunking, you may need to replace some parts.
Pull a wheel off & look at the control arm bushings, condition of the tie rod end & boot. The rubber bushings on the LCAs should not be separated or badly cracked. Grab the outer tie rod & see if you can wiggle it around by hand. If you can, you may need a new outer tie rod end.
The Haynes manual will also have a few things you can do to check the condition of the various parts of your suspension & steering. Check it out.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Stazi wrote up a good how-to. I used that and a Hayne's manual. MUCH easier than the alternator, Tour is right, you'll be surprised how easy it was. Good luck!
Scott
Scott
Mabe I WILL be Phil.
1999 Contour SVT, Tropic Green
BAT kit, K&N RU-3530+MAF, Magnecore 8.5mm, some audio goodies, Hightowers, Knauberized, tatoo by Parkedcar.
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Who is this Stazi person? Where do I find the write-up? I also read this guy made sway bar links or something? How do I order those?
Rob
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Originally posted by Rob___:
Who is this Stazi person? Where do I find the write-up? I also read this guy made sway bar links or something? How do I order those?
Rob
Look in the brake forum...he has a post stickied on their for his brake specials...his contact info is there as well.
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I know many people cry foul when talking about doing the suspension but it really is a piece of cake.
The fronts take about 2 hours to R&R. They are a bit tedious at times but never a hard job.
The rears take under 1 hour. A simple bolt off, bolt on affair.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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LOL...sounds like a blast! It can't be that easy  Rob
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