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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by RogerB:
What motion of the front, mac-strutted, independent suspension is it that you're trying to prevent that will, in so doing, improve your traction at launch?



Very good question. I as also awaiting this answer.

I could see it helping if you used a solid torque brace (or 2) mounting the transmission case to the frame but not the A-arms. Wheel hop comes from the reverse oscillation of the entire powertrain. If you are not running solid engine and transmission mounts with a torque brace or two you are not stopping this problem at the beginning.




Could be a viable solution... I haven't heard about the ATX Contiques with significant mods (I know, I know) having wheel hop problems. There was a post a while back that indicated it may be due to the pre-loading of the drive line.

Then again, with less give at the suspension, then more of the stresses induced by the engine movement are now heaped onto the roll restrictors & engine mounts... Stopping wheel hop at the source would be the way to go, ideally.


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Originally posted by 96BlackSE:
I'm not too familiar with traction bars but is this the basic idea?






That doesn't look like it does anything!

There are 2 mounts for the LCA, which effectively stop F/R movement of it... so all these will do is stop the LCA from flexing between the subframe and the traction bar...

I.E. pretty useless IMO!

If I'm looking at it right, to be effective at stopping the flex, the bars would need to be farther out (near the ball joint), but that will interfere with the tire.


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Originally posted by DemonSVT:

Very good question. I as also awaiting this answer.

I could see it helping if you used a solid torque brace (or 2) mounting the transmission case to the frame but not the A-arms. Wheel hop comes from the reverse oscillation of the entire powertrain. If you are not running solid engine and transmission mounts with a torque brace or two you are not stopping this problem at the beginning.




The control arms have a forward/reverse hoping action, as the wheel starts to spin the control arm angles forward then when the power being applied is just enough to break the tires loose but not smoke them the wheel snaps rearwards and this repeats and is very harsh. You usualy will not have this problem on the street, but a track sprayed with VHT is a hole different ball park. The traction bars hold the arms back and keep the wheels staighter thus reducing tourqe steer and eliminating wheel hop. My friend with an 11sec h22 turbo civic had very very bad tourqe steer, the traction bars eliminated it and also brought his 330's way down. The picture shown is similar in idea. And yes I already have solid front and rear mounts.


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Yeah, I get it. The bushing deflection allows the front/rear motion. Braces like this would (in theory) allow you to keep flexible bushings but reduce or eliminate the front/rear flexing.


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I'm not a big 1320 guy, so would these have any use on an open road course or AutoX?


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nope. Traction bars (on cars like ours) are strictly for big-power drag guys.


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Originally posted by RogerB:
Yeah, I get it. The bushing deflection allows the front/rear motion. Braces like this would (in theory) allow you to keep flexible bushings but reduce or eliminate the front/rear flexing.




Ahh... there we go... I wasn't thinking about the bushings.

Ya, I guess they would allow a bit of movement.


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Originally posted by RogerB:
Yeah, I get it. The bushing deflection allows the front/rear motion. Braces like this would (in theory) allow you to keep flexible bushings but reduce or eliminate the front/rear flexing.




Exactly, also keep in mind the ones that I am using are more heavy duty then the ones in the pic posted. Maybe in a couple weeks I will get my car on the hoist again and get some good installed pics, I have a couple now that I took with the car sitting on the ground but you can't see much.
If can get some time off work I may try to get out to spring zing, I know of a few others that will go if I do.


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Originally posted by RogerB:
Yeah, I get it. The bushing deflection allows the front/rear motion. Braces like this would (in theory) allow you to keep flexible bushings but reduce or eliminate the front/rear flexing.




So would a solid Delrin/polyurethane bushing do the same thing? Also, the only reason I could see having these over a solid bushing is being able to remove them when not at the track so the ride isn't so stiff. Is this why you went w/ them?


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Originally posted by rac74:
So would a solid Delrin/polyurethane bushing do the same thing? Also, the only reason I could see having these over a solid bushing is being able to remove them when not at the track so the ride isn't so stiff. Is this why you went w/ them?




Even with solid joints instead of bushings you still get the control arm flexing, that is why I boxed them in. The ability to adjust the preload from daily driving to track conditions or for that matter even having preload at all would not be possible with the bushings and you do notice a huge difference in handling, traction, wheel hop and traction with the bars installed.


98 Contour SE 3.0L 5-speed SCT PRP, Gutted IMRC's, Fidanza Flywheel, Race Ported 2004 3.0L Oval Port, Zex 125hp shot, 70mm Mustang TB, 42Lb injectors,Walbro 255 pump, Traction Bars, Zeitronix wideband o2, lots of little things, 10,000K HID's!!
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