Originally posted by DemonSVT:

Very good question. I as also awaiting this answer.

I could see it helping if you used a solid torque brace (or 2) mounting the transmission case to the frame but not the A-arms. Wheel hop comes from the reverse oscillation of the entire powertrain. If you are not running solid engine and transmission mounts with a torque brace or two you are not stopping this problem at the beginning.



The control arms have a forward/reverse hoping action, as the wheel starts to spin the control arm angles forward then when the power being applied is just enough to break the tires loose but not smoke them the wheel snaps rearwards and this repeats and is very harsh. You usualy will not have this problem on the street, but a track sprayed with VHT is a hole different ball park. The traction bars hold the arms back and keep the wheels staighter thus reducing tourqe steer and eliminating wheel hop. My friend with an 11sec h22 turbo civic had very very bad tourqe steer, the traction bars eliminated it and also brought his 330's way down. The picture shown is similar in idea. And yes I already have solid front and rear mounts.

98 Contour SE 3.0L 5-speed SCT PRP, Gutted IMRC's, Fidanza Flywheel, Race Ported 2004 3.0L Oval Port, Zex 125hp shot, 70mm Mustang TB, 42Lb injectors,Walbro 255 pump, Traction Bars, Zeitronix wideband o2, lots of little things, 10,000K HID's!!