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#1495701 02/04/06 05:56 PM
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NOVA Offline OP
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I'm working on a 98 contour with the 2.5 duratech, the owner said it just stopped running one day while driving so they had it towed and it has set in their driveway for about 2 years. I put a battery in it-changed the plugs-(they were fouled bad) put the plug wires on correctly-(had four wires crossed up) and finally got it started.now it has a knock in the top end. any thing special with these motors i should know about or look for. I'm planning to tear the valve covers off monday? any suggestions on what I might find?

#1495702 02/04/06 07:45 PM
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You need to figure out why the plugs are fouled.
Why the engine won't start? Before you start changing all sorts of parts.
See what CEL codes are in the memory.


95 Contour GL. Bought new. BAT Sway Bars/Pioneer CD/Koni Rear Struts/Mobil Fluids. Looking for 15" alloy rims-PM me. 180,500km's so far.
#1495703 02/04/06 09:38 PM
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the plugs were fouled because they had the firing order wrong and they just kept turning it over trying to get it started. I allready had it running -it runs and idles smooth-- it has a knocking sound coming from under the valve pan cover and I'm taking off the covers to see where the noise is coming from. I was just wondering if there are any specific procedures I need to go through (ie. ford designed something stupid and you have to remove this part first-then this part second) or will it be just a standard r&r?

#1495704 02/05/06 01:42 AM
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I have the info Alldatadiy.com. It is a big job, you need some gaskets from the dealer, and time to work carefully. I think if you have a bad lifter, check the oil is good and drive a while, the lifter may have lost all the oil pressure sitting around. {Watch the coolant temperature does not exceed the m in Normal on the gauge. If it does, the waterpump needs changing.} I had a noisy lifter in a Dodge when I cranked it without any start, the oil must have squeezed out. It was OK with some driving and still is today. Here is the valve cover procedure: You have to remove the upper intake manifold

Upper

Disconnect battery ground cable.
Remove water pump pulley shield bolts, then shield.
Press black retainer on upper intake manifold with screwdriver and disconnect main emission vacuum control connector and brake booster vacuum connector from manifold.
Loosen engine air cleaner tube clamps on air cleaner outlet tube.
Disconnect crankcase ventilation hoses and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve tube from outlet tube fitting.
Remove outlet tube from Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and throttle body.
Remove accelerator cable and speed control actuator from throttle body, then accelerator cable bracket from intake manifold. Position bracket aside.
Remove IAC valve fresh air supply hose from upper intake manifold fitting.
Disconnect fuel charging wiring from Throttle Position (TP) sensor, IAC valve and EGR vacuum regulator control.
Remove vacuum supply hose from upper intake manifold to Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve at upper intake manifold, then disconnect vacuum supply hoses to EGR vacuum regulator control and EGR valve.
Loosen and remove EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube nut from EGR valve, then position tube aside.

Fig. 4 Upper intake manifold bolt removal sequence

[image][/image]



Remove intake manifold bolts in sequence. When removing engine components, always remove bolts in reverse order of tightening sequence or damage to engine components may occur.
Remove upper intake manifold and lower intake manifold upper gaskets. Discard intake manifold upper gaskets.
Reverse procedure to install, noting following:
Install new intake manifold upper gaskets.

Fig. 4 Upper intake manifold bolt tightening sequence

[image][/image]




Torque intake manifold bolts in sequence to 5.9-8.8 ft lb .

Left Side

Remove upper intake manifold.
Remove crankcase ventilation tube from lefthand valve cover, then fuel charging wiring brackets from lefthand valve cover stud bolts. Position fuel charging wiring aside.

Fig. 13 Valve cover bolt removal sequence

[image][/image]



Remove ignition wires from spark plugs and valve cover, then loosen valve cover bolts and stud bolts in sequence.
Carefully remove valve cover from lefthand cylinder head, then gaskets from cover.
Reverse procedure to install, noting following:
Clean valve cover sealing surfaces using shop towel and suitable metal cleaner. Apply a 0.31 inch diameter bead of black silicone rubber sealant F4AZ-19562-B, or equivalent, at two places on valve cover sealing surfaces where front cover and cylinder heads contact and two places on rear of cylinder head where camshaft seal retainer contacts cylinder head.
Install new valve cover gaskets onto valve cover.

Fig. 14 Valve cover bolt tightening sequence

[image][/image]



Torque valve cover bolts in sequence to 5.9-8.8 ft lbs within six minutes of applying sealer.

#1495705 02/05/06 02:09 AM
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thank you very much ---I'll post with results

#1495706 02/05/06 04:05 AM
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I did this on my car but I havent completed the how-to on it, but you can see how to get apart the upper and lower LIM by clicking the link on my sig.

I will try to get the how-to on the valve-cover done by moday night if it will help you. Just let me know and I'll make it a priority.

I still have a lot to finish on my site... no time


1998 SVT + Goodies Hal's How To's
#1495707 02/07/06 09:02 PM
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first off I had the yr wrong its a 95--anyways got it apart and sure enough 1 collapsed lifter--gonna pick up the parts in a day or so

Last edited by NOVA; 02/07/06 09:03 PM.
#1495708 02/08/06 02:59 AM
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Check to make sure the Head has no damage before re-install.
Good luck and post back.


95 Contour GL. Bought new. BAT Sway Bars/Pioneer CD/Koni Rear Struts/Mobil Fluids. Looking for 15" alloy rims-PM me. 180,500km's so far.

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