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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,140
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,140 |
I just finished a new intake. Pictures will be coming soon. It's the same tried and true K&N and adapter, but the box is new. I've been watching some testing that indicates the volume of the box is critical in maintaining a low air temperature, so I did away with the basic shield, and went with a sealed box. It's three pieces of aluminum that enclose the filter and connect it to the hole in the fenderwell. The top fits tighly against the hood, but I'm going to use pipe insulation to finish off the seal. It should be nearly airtight, since all seams and holes are filled with silicone. This took a little work, but it's much smaller than the Demon-style setup I was running, and has no leaks from the radiator/header side, and also is farther away from all the hot spots. I might do a dyno once I get the intake manifolds rebuilt and work out the exhaust - if I do I'll try to heatsoak it and see how it works.
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,978
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2004
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Others have tried the sealed box route, hope you have better results
Alex
'99 SVT Contour
-=|WANTED: Vortech, working or not |=-
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,637
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,637 |
look forward to seeing pics
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer: Originally posted by RawBurt: I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,978
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2002
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Do you have it on your car currently? I wouldn't mind stopping by and checking it out. Plus I want to see this hardcore auto-x machine you have
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,140
Hard-core CEG\'er
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The sides extend all the way up under the fenders to seal completely. This should work just like the traditional type, except it's breathing through the entirety of the large hole, instead of the snorkel - and has no leaks for hot air.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,292
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,292 |
Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
The sides extend all the way up under the fenders to seal completely. This should work just like the traditional type, except it's breathing through the entirety of the large hole, instead of the snorkel - and has no leaks for hot air.
...yeah,some pipe insulation would clean that up a bit...i know your going for more func over fashion and all buttttttttt
"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes.
--93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,155
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2003
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Nice fabrication work! I agree with Chris though, pretty it up just a weee bit and it's perfect!
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,506
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2002
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Pretty it up.
And then make 8 more of them.
MSDS, SHO-shop Y, custom 2.5" catback; xcal2; 63mm TB, K&N 3530; Koni struts, Aussie bar; THaines forks, Quaife, SpecII, UR fly; DMD; Nima UD pullies; Stazi brakes; f&r Pole120 mounts. Just a daily commuter car. Silver '98 SVT E0 #3159
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,616
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Apr 2002
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Originally posted by PDXSVT: Pretty it up.
And then make 8 more of them.
Make that 9
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Joined: Aug 2003
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If anyone really wants one, I can give a how-to. I used a sheet of aluminum I got from a friend for free, but you can pick up a piece at Lowes or wherever. I had some self-tapping sheet metal screws, a pair of snips, a jigsaw, and a blind riveter. I just made a cardboard template and then cut the aluminum from that. For edges I used the snips, and for the hole I screwed the sheet to a piece of plywood and drilled a pilot hole, then cut it with a jigsaw. It makes a nice, clean, round hole. I'm sure with a little more time it could be very nice looking, but you'd have to make a bunch of templates before you got it to really fit snugly against the wiring harness. I'll take a picture when the silicone cures and I trim it up. The insulation is on now so the top looks good, and it seals very tighly. I'm going to get a temperature sensor and test it out next weekend - data will be posted!
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