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I tried searching for this issue and found nothing. Im currently trying to replace my fuel pump assembly to fix my non-working fuel gauge after trying two diffrent gauges and it still not working my assumption is the fuel sender.
So as i was saying, im in the middle of trying to remove the fuel pump to put in another one my friend had lieing around to test to see if its the sender. I go to try and remove the fuel line from the pump (return style) and for the life of me i cant get them to budge. I push in the clips on the lines and then use a plyers to pull straight up on them but they just wont give. Im in the clear assumption im doing something wrong so i quickly stop trying to break my fuel lines and clip the clips back in and push back in the fuel line that ive made move just a few millimeters maybe.
So what am i doing wrong, why wont these lines come out. At this point ive tried twice to remove my pump and failed and starting to think i should leave this to a professional. Ive done this before with my 89 mustang 5.0 and that was a piece of cake. This on the other hand is a P.I.T.A.
edit - btw i have a 98.5 contour svt and a 89 mustang.
Last edited by blackstang5.0; 01/26/06 11:56 PM.
1989 ford mustang LX 5.0
13.4 @ 101mph
1998.5 SVT contour
3L swap
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know what, instead of doing a gamble on breaking my fuel lines im going to bring it to the shop. Called and they said they would charge me $150 to do it which is alot better then going though the pain of breaking it, towing it, missing work because of it ect ect. But please still post on what i was doing wrong.
1989 ford mustang LX 5.0
13.4 @ 101mph
1998.5 SVT contour
3L swap
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Welcome  . You may want to try a fuel line disconnect tool.
Originally posted by CSVT1214:
Originally posted by pole120:
Originally posted by CSVT1214:
If you don't have one already, you need the tool for disconnecting the fuel lines.
Where can i get this?
I forgot where I got mine but I think any AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts, or similar place would carry them.
Looks like this and should be labeled "Ford A/C + Fuel Line Disconnect Tool".
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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how does that tool work? Doesnt look like something i would use on those fuel lines?
1989 ford mustang LX 5.0
13.4 @ 101mph
1998.5 SVT contour
3L swap
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15
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I think the type your refering too are the ones with the tabs you have access to with pliars, the type the tool above are for are the type with no external tabs , the tool basically wraps around the outside of the line and the raised ridge slots into the connection of the line and relases the locking tabs so it can be separated. As for the line separating problem you had ,yeh thet can sometimes be tricky. I find with most if you push the tabs in and kinda push it first (opposite from the way you think you would to remove it) and then yank it back they come free. I guess alot of it is experiance. I bet if you saw a tech do it you would kick yourself 
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Ya i bet i would. But i might have said it wrong but those tab things on the fuel lines click off and rotate freely on the fuel line. When i pull up with pliers i get nothing.
1989 ford mustang LX 5.0
13.4 @ 101mph
1998.5 SVT contour
3L swap
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The tool shown does NOT apply to these connectors. It is for spring-lock connectors used elsewhere, but not on the fuel tank lines on a return-style Contour.
By a stroke of irony, I just worked on this yesterday and had the same problem. A SEARCH here indicated that the lines would come out once the tabs were released (I used pliers for that) but would take considerable force to pull.
Like the original poster, I was able to move them a few millimeters by tugging on them with pliers, but no more. Got frustrated, had lunch.
After lunch, I grabbed my 20 oz framing (straight claw) hammer and a regular 16 oz curved claw hammer. I used the smaller hammer to tap the claw of the larger hammer into the small gap I had made previously making certain the locking ring did not engage. A quick pull on the hammer handle and the line popped right out. Repeated for the other line.
Now, I just need to get the filler pipe disengaged so I can fully drop the tank... That one is being a real PITA. Damned P0442 leak caused by a leak at the filler pipe seal...and emissions are due this month still!
Steve
98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car
89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles
94 SHO ATX - 190K
1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K.
ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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Originally posted by projectSHO89:
The tool shown does NOT apply to these connectors. It is for spring-lock connectors used elsewhere, but not on the fuel tank lines on a return-style Contour.
....
Oops! Sorry for the wrong info. 
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Originally posted by projectSHO89:
The tool shown does NOT apply to these connectors. It is for spring-lock connectors used elsewhere, but not on the fuel tank lines on a return-style Contour.
By a stroke of irony, I just worked on this yesterday and had the same problem. A SEARCH here indicated that the lines would come out once the tabs were released (I used pliers for that) but would take considerable force to pull.
Like the original poster, I was able to move them a few millimeters by tugging on them with pliers, but no more. Got frustrated, had lunch.
After lunch, I grabbed my 20 oz framing (straight claw) hammer and a regular 16 oz curved claw hammer. I used the smaller hammer to tap the claw of the larger hammer into the small gap I had made previously making certain the locking ring did not engage. A quick pull on the hammer handle and the line popped right out. Repeated for the other line.
Now, I just need to get the filler pipe disengaged so I can fully drop the tank... That one is being a real PITA. Damned P0442 leak caused by a leak at the filler pipe seal...and emissions are due this month still!
Steve
hmm, I thought with the return style contours you didnt need to drop the fuel tank to remove the fuel pump. From what i was looking at it seemed like it could just come up though the portal under the seat. But using the framing hammer claw to force up the line seems like a good idea. So i think i might try this again this weekend now.
But still chime in people if you know of a specific tool for this job. Rather do it the right way and not risk breaking my fuel lines.
1989 ford mustang LX 5.0
13.4 @ 101mph
1998.5 SVT contour
3L swap
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Quote:
hmm, I thought with the return style contours you didnt need to drop the fuel tank to remove the fuel pump.
You don't have to. I'm trying to drop the fuel tank for another reason as explained above. The fuel lines still had to be disconnected from the pump.
Now I'm stuck. Can't get that stupid locking collar on the filler pipe to disengage.
I'm debating dropping the whole rear suspension or just putting it all back together, admit defeat, and take it to a dealer where, hopefully, there is someone who has done it before.....
Anyone drop that flippin' tank before and can offer an idea?
Steve
98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car
89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles
94 SHO ATX - 190K
1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K.
ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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