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Help. Still have rough idle once car warms up. Car starts great and idles well during high idle. Once it warms up the idle is poopy-too slow. Idle picks up when high speed fans come on - good. When they kick out, idle too slow again.
My tech checked for vacuum leaks (so did I)-passed.
No CEL light.
EGR valve and solonoid-passed.
Changed PCV and checked lines to and from.
Cleaned IAC - seemed to help a little.
Gas mileage - Brutal.
Changed fuel filter, plugs, wires, coil and air filter.
What am I MISSING?
95 Contour GL. Bought new.
BAT Sway Bars/Pioneer CD/Koni Rear Struts/Mobil Fluids.
Looking for 15" alloy rims-PM me.
180,500km's so far.
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"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Joined: Nov 2005
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CEG\'er
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I forgot to mention, I cleaned that as well. Also, if it was malfunctioning I should get a CEL code?
I'm at a loss here. I'm temped to buy an IAC and just try that. Might be a waste though.
Help Guys!
95 Contour GL. Bought new.
BAT Sway Bars/Pioneer CD/Koni Rear Struts/Mobil Fluids.
Looking for 15" alloy rims-PM me.
180,500km's so far.
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Joined: Jun 2005
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Originally posted by SquareHead:
..I'm tempted to buy an IAC and just try that...
This is usually the next suggestion as a malfunctioning IAC usually does not throw a CEL code.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 410
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Thats what my thinking was as well. When I changed the PCV it was still working. (jiggle, jiggle)
Only time I can get a cel is when I unplug sensors.
95 Contour GL. Bought new.
BAT Sway Bars/Pioneer CD/Koni Rear Struts/Mobil Fluids.
Looking for 15" alloy rims-PM me.
180,500km's so far.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5
Newbie
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Newbie
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Help me with the same problemof a slow idle. What is an "IAC"? Where is it mounted? Thanks
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Joined: Nov 2005
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CEG\'er
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Which engine do you have?
Look up my previous post on this subject as well.
95 Contour GL. Bought new.
BAT Sway Bars/Pioneer CD/Koni Rear Struts/Mobil Fluids.
Looking for 15" alloy rims-PM me.
180,500km's so far.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,345
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Originally posted by havnfun:
Help me with the same problemof a slow idle. What is an "IAC"? Where is it mounted? Thanks
For the Zetec I-4, you need to access the IAC from the bottom of the car.
IAC cleaning
from Ray's UIM/LIM how to in Duratec Maintenance how to.
"Replacing the IAC gasket:
(From IAC faq)
Over time, the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve becomes sticky due to buildup from the EGR and PCV systems. It can stick partially open such that idle quality is adversely affected, and engine RPM's will not drop below 1500. For a while, blipping the throttle will restore normal idle, but this only works for so long.
The fix is to remove the IAC valve by unbolting the two 8mm bolts that hold it on and disconnected the wiring plug. If you are careful enough, replacement of the gasket will not be necessary. The gasket costs less than US $1.00, so it is no tragedy if you destroy it. Once the valve is off, spray it out with some carb/intake cleaner and make sure any gunky residue is gone. Reattach, and you are done. It is a lot cheaper than a new IAC, which runs around US $70. Note: Ford claims the IAC cannot be cleaned, but this is not true in my experience." Ray.
Location of the IAC for the Zetec.
"It's on the back side of the intake plenum under the throttle body area." DESIGN.
I looked at the Haynes manual and the Zetec IAC valve is located next to the starter. Below are the steps from the 1996 Ford CD to remove it .
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground cable
2. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube and resonator assembly.
3. Disconnect the main chassis vacuum line.
4. Disconnect the ignition coil and radio interference capacitor wiring.
5. Remove the fuel line bracket retaining bolt.
6. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, raise vehicle on hoist.
7.
7. Disconnect the engine control sensor wiring or fuel charging wiring (depending upon application) from the idle air control valve (IAC valve) at the idle air control valve connector.
8. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, remove retainer for engine control sensor wiring from the upper retaining stud bolt.
9. Remove the two idle air control valve retaining bolts or stud bolt (depending upon application).
10. Remove the idle air control valve and idle air control valve gasket.
Installation
1. Note: If scraping is necessary, be careful not to damage idle air control valve or intake manifold idle air control valve gasket surfaces or drop material into intake manifold.
Clean idle air control valve gasket mating surfaces.
2. To install idle air control valve, reverse Removal procedure. Tighten the fuel line bracket bolt to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).
3. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the retaining bolt and stud bolt to 8-12
4. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the idle air control valve retaining bolts to 8-11 N-m (71-97 lb-in).
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Newbie
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Newbie
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That is a great description. The first paragraph tells that a bad IAC will promote a high idle. My problem is a low idle. And when the compressor engages, Holy Shhake Ratttle and roll. I did replace the belt and belt tensioner and that repaired the erratic idle, but not the low idle. Do you have any other thoughts.
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Originally posted by havnfun:
.. My problem is a low idle. And when the compressor engages, Holy Shhake Ratttle and roll. I did replace the belt and belt tensioner and that repaired the erratic idle, but not the low idle. Do you have any other thoughts.
If you don't have a CEL code, it is probably the IAC valve.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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