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#1486904 01/31/06 03:58 PM
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Sure... but at that point, why not just buy a small travel trailer and haul around all your batteries and speakers in that... would sound cool, and weigh just as much!




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Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.


#1486905 01/31/06 04:15 PM
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Originally posted by 00SVTGA:
caps dont really help in a system putting out over 500 watts rms.





We have already covered this in the posts above on what exactly caps do, please read - its educational - Why is a cap is good for 500W and not 625W? Can you explain?

Why do peope find the need to come up with statements that have no basis of reasoning?

Originally posted by 00SVTGA:

i'm pushing about 1100-1200 watts rms @ .9 ohm yes kiddies .9 ohms and at first the bass would hit so hard that the headlights on my car would dim very baddly and


Impedance has nothing to do with your electrical systems lack to sustain the amps power supply. An amp that puts out the same power at 4 ohm as your current amp at 1 ohm would do the same thing to your charging system

Originally posted by 00SVTGA:
i tested the voltage drain by then turning on my dome light which would completly shut off when the bass hit. yea its ghetto but it works and gives you a good idea of how much current your pulling . i'm pulling about 150 amps total



Music probably will not pull 150A - a Bass Sweep or frequency gen could do this, but regular music with a single amp not likely and how does the light indicate the actual drain????.....Is there a magic number that must be drawn from the system that will keep that light off? and all this time I was usuing a voltmeter, how silly of me.

Originally posted by 00SVTGA:

- running the - wire off the ground of the amp directly to the - terminal post of the factory battery if possible this helps out a lot compaired to just grounding the - wire off the amps ground wire to a chassie ground




That is just a waste of wire, a GOOD and PROPER ground in the truck will net you no gain over running a separate ground all the way to the front battery.

Originally posted by 00SVTGA:

yea boy also dynamat doesn't really help . i dynamated my whole trunk , the lid, under the spare tire, the rear deck, ect, and the trunk still beats like crazy. it was a waste of money if you ask me


In the trunk, Dynamat is needed to add mass to reduce vibrations. You need to add enough Mass to over come the power of you system - which means a lot of deadening. The material is better suited for doors and floors to keep road noise out if you do not want to spend the amount required to fully deaden your trunk. I would guess 2-4 layers would be needed to really quite a very noisey trunk


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#1486906 01/31/06 05:40 PM
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Originally posted by Oscar Nominated Ray:
Sure... but at that point, why not just buy a small travel trailer and haul around all your batteries and speakers in that... would sound cool, and weigh just as much!







touche. i do plan to track my car, one day so yeah, more weight would suck. i plan to run one 600w mono amp to my one 12" sub and a nice 4 channel amp to run the highs. would just an optima yellow top be sufficient? i already have a 1 farad cap, should i add it as well? or just sell it off?



ps i thought running a ground wire from the amps in the trunk, allll the way to the battery in the engine bay, was a bad idea.


Originally posted by Tourgasm:
Sometimes you can mess up a word so bad that spell check doens't know what the hell you're talking about.


#1486907 02/03/06 09:50 AM
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Originally posted by 00SVTGA:
caps dont really help in a system putting out over 500 watts rms.

i'm pushing about 1100-1200 watts rms @ .9 ohm yes kiddies .9 ohms and at first the bass would hit so hard that the headlights on my car would dim very baddly and i tested the voltage drain by then turning on my dome light which would completly shut off when the bass hit. yea its ghetto but it works and gives you a good idea of how much current your pulling . i'm pulling about 150 amps total

so i looked around and looked at 1 farad caps which don't really do anything and will not really solve any problems
and all the way to 5 farad caps.

then i found the answer BATCAP check out xstatic batcap its half battery half cap and works great.

now when the bass hit my headlight only dim a very little bit and the dome light only dims a little too.

if you running a big billy bad a$$ system you'll want to do a couple of things .

- upgrade the factory ground . run a 4 gauge wire or what ever matches your amp's power wire from the - terminal post on the factory battery directly to the ground of the car less than two feet of wire . theres a nice spot under the air filter on the transmission mounting bolt. be sure to scrap the paint off with a wire brush in a one inch square of bare metal. if you have a chassie ground aka the - ground wire off the amp grounded directly to the chassie ground in the trunk. if you screwed the - ground wire off the amp to a metal surface in the trunk this means you !!!

- upgrade the + wire that leads from the alternator to the + terminal of the factory battery with 4 gaufge wire or at least the same size wire you are using to power your amp this will help recharge the stock battery a lot better

- running the - wire off the ground of the amp directly to the - terminal post of the factory battery if possible this helps out a lot compaired to just grounding the - wire off the amps ground wire to a chassie ground

yea boy also dynamat doesn't really help . i dynamated my whole trunk , the lid, under the spare tire, the rear deck, ect, and the trunk still beats like crazy. it was a waste of money if you ask me




I'ma go ahead and call some BS on this one. You NEVER want to run a ground that long. Going from the Amp's - to the Battery's - would mean a long run. Long ground wires equal what class? Bad. I'd get into it, but I'm tired....



Morgan


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#1486908 02/03/06 03:54 PM
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grrrrrrrrr.

i will reply later when i have more time to argue my point !


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#1486909 02/03/06 05:04 PM
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Originally posted by 00SVTGA:
grrrrrrrrr.

i will reply later when i have more time to argue my point !





I'm not sure I'd advise that unless we just misunderstood what you posted before. Most of your points can be easily refuted.


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#1486910 02/03/06 05:58 PM
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Originally posted by dnewma04:
Most of your points can be easily refuted.




I think already have


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#1486911 02/06/06 04:43 PM
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so ok, if caps are a waste for rap/hip hop/techno, are you saying a second battery is the way to go?


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#1486912 02/06/06 05:00 PM
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Originally posted by 00SVTGA:
.9ohms





Yippie soo proud Let me know when your in the lower than .5ohm range if you wanna be cool


Pretty much everything you posted is pretty laughable

#1486913 02/07/06 04:46 AM
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Originally posted by loggerbomb:

so ok, if caps are a waste for rap/hip hop/techno, are you saying a second battery is the way to go?




Are you asking me? I would recommend a second battery first to anyone who has a properly wired system that warrants the need for the added reserve. And by that I mean upgraded grounds and all other connections solid. A cap is NOT good for straight SPL - it will help an amp play rap/techno because it can respond to the fast demand of the music.

Caps help SQ - most normal people that are into car audio that listen mainly to rap do not focus as much on SQ, but rather how loud they can listen to the music. A cap would allow notes to be tighter and more crisp. These details can be easily missed with 150dB @ 40hz and the rest of the system is playing around 110dB. No SQ there - sounding good and Sound Quality are NOT the same thing. You can have a great sounding system and have have terrrible SQ - by this I mean imaging, phasing, balance etc....it may sound good, but it would be a disgrace at a show.


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