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#1486894 01/24/06 12:28 AM
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you may want to invest in a second battery setup if you think the system is putting that much strain on your alternator. most likely, you aren't hurting anything, at least not that much, but you have to expect a little wear and tear when you have that much extra power.

and what're you running? 2000 watts, RMS? peak? is that just what the box said? sorry, I'm not trying to make you out to be an audio dummy or anything, but usually those with really expensive/top of the line systems know a thing or two about car audio, and capacitors are pretty basic.


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#1486895 01/24/06 02:26 AM
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Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by contourdude:
Allright. I usually dont turn it up that much unless im trying to show it off to my friends or something. Probly maxed out never more then 15 20 minutes. I just dont want to have to replace the alternator later if i can prevent it now with some 75 dollar fix. Thanks




using a cap won't ever help your alternator. if anything, it will hurt it. you are introducing another "mouth to feed" for your alt. so in addition to the amps and battery (and other running accessories), it now has to "refill" the cap constantly.

also, you should know, a cap will completely drain (and subsequently "re-charge") exceptionally quickly and often. it doesn't matter if you're playing it hard for 1 minute or 100 minutes. the cap will be "emptying" and "refilling" the entire time.




A 1 farad cap is not going to put a strain on our 130A Alt anytime soon. A cap adds capacity(storage) to your electrical system it holds current that is already available within the system. It does not create power. It holds energy until required and refills. This helps an amps power supply to work more efficiently since it has less spikes in voltage. As the name implies it is a stiffening capacitor. It keeps large spikes from occurring. The cap charges/discharges quickly to keep a constant voltage.

Now this works well with normal listening and music. Add Test tones for SPL and forget about it, then they are not useful.

If you goal is SQ, a cap is very helpful. Adding a second battery is my preferred choice, using both would be perfect for most applications.


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#1486896 01/24/06 03:20 AM
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Knu, my concern is with higher ESR caps that have absolutely no value and do introduce a strain on the system, even if minimal. And unfortunately, there are quite a few out there that fit in this category.


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#1486897 01/24/06 04:18 AM
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The growing number of oversized caps is alarming and like you said - many smaller caps is better. I had not looked at the 3+ farad cap market to see how high the ESR is these days. Never really saw a need for anything larger then 1 - 1.5F, if you NEED that much, get a battery and actually add some reserve capacity....LOL


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#1486898 01/24/06 09:57 AM
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Yes, it is. Caps are a waste, IMHO. If you are really worried, do the big three, and upgrade your battery. If you still have problems, do the alternator. If that doesn't help you are SOL.



Morgan


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#1486899 01/24/06 12:52 PM
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Originally posted by Smorganin:
Yes, it is. Caps are a waste, IMHO. If you are really worried, do the big three, and upgrade your battery. If you still have problems, do the alternator. If that doesn't help you are SOL.



Morgan



I'd start with upgrading the ground wires under the hood. Makes a big diff on our cars.


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#1486900 01/24/06 03:00 PM
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Originally posted by Smorganin:
Yes, it is. Caps are a waste, IMHO. If you are really worried, do the big three, and upgrade your battery. If you still have problems, do the alternator. If that doesn't help you are SOL.



Morgan




Everyone does know that every amplifier ever made has caps in it right? And why are they in there? To stabilize the power supply.....Do you need 6 Farads...NO.....Caps are not designed for heavy SPL, they are there for music. Everyone says - oh they discharge and thats it....how can they know this, they are not see through, the meter top is ancient history. Physics 101 - light is faster them sound, your cap empties during a song that has a beat - in between beats, that cap has refilled. Electricity is like crazy fast yo,

NOW on a solid bass note for SPL, no break in sound, you are SOL. Caps help music, not SPL

Hows this - I'll start off playing a 50Hz note with a cap connected, we'll hook up some knife switches on both sides of the cap. Through them at the same time to disconnect the cap on both sides (so no leak is allowed) Who wants to lick it and tell me its empty? (ok a voltmeter will show it has a charge, but whats fun in that)

And for the record, I do not think caps are a solve all problem. Given the choice, a second battery is by far the best upgrade you can do period. Adding a cap to that makes it a better electrical system.


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#1486901 01/25/06 02:40 PM
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To expand on Bill's post a bit, most amps built today have regulated power supplies and one of the key components are caps.

RF has a new amp that uses advanced caps with extremely low ESR that recharge quickly enough to allow their amps to produce more continuous music power than traditional amplifier topologies do. Right now, the caps make the price prohibitive, but they will come down.

As said before, caps do have a place, but you must be careful when purchasing. Even when buying one, i would invest in other areas first because the bang for the buck on even a good one is quite low.


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#1486902 01/31/06 02:08 PM
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caps dont really help in a system putting out over 500 watts rms.

i'm pushing about 1100-1200 watts rms @ .9 ohm yes kiddies .9 ohms and at first the bass would hit so hard that the headlights on my car would dim very baddly and i tested the voltage drain by then turning on my dome light which would completly shut off when the bass hit. yea its ghetto but it works and gives you a good idea of how much current your pulling . i'm pulling about 150 amps total

so i looked around and looked at 1 farad caps which don't really do anything and will not really solve any problems
and all the way to 5 farad caps.

then i found the answer BATCAP check out xstatic batcap its half battery half cap and works great.

now when the bass hit my headlight only dim a very little bit and the dome light only dims a little too.

if you running a big billy bad a$$ system you'll want to do a couple of things .

- upgrade the factory ground . run a 4 gauge wire or what ever matches your amp's power wire from the - terminal post on the factory battery directly to the ground of the car less than two feet of wire . theres a nice spot under the air filter on the transmission mounting bolt. be sure to scrap the paint off with a wire brush in a one inch square of bare metal. if you have a chassie ground aka the - ground wire off the amp grounded directly to the chassie ground in the trunk. if you screwed the - ground wire off the amp to a metal surface in the trunk this means you !!!

- upgrade the + wire that leads from the alternator to the + terminal of the factory battery with 4 gaufge wire or at least the same size wire you are using to power your amp this will help recharge the stock battery a lot better

- running the - wire off the ground of the amp directly to the - terminal post of the factory battery if possible this helps out a lot compaired to just grounding the - wire off the amps ground wire to a chassie ground

yea boy also dynamat doesn't really help . i dynamated my whole trunk , the lid, under the spare tire, the rear deck, ect, and the trunk still beats like crazy. it was a waste of money if you ask me


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#1486903 01/31/06 02:33 PM
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i just picked up a yellow top Optima to run in my trunk. would running two yellow tops be optimal? then with a cap as well?


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Sometimes you can mess up a word so bad that spell check doens't know what the hell you're talking about.


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