Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications General Mods Pulling motor.....how hard is it really?

Actually, I owned a 95 SE and I don't think the rod shift trannies are all that nice. They work, but were always much slower shifting and more balky. The shift feel is/was much better on a cable shift, comparing new to new that is.

Then of course, if your shift forks start binding the rod shift is better. However, replacing my shift forks brought back the like-new shifting and since I haven't used ATF anymore in my transmission, I haven't had anymore issues with binding forks.
So I'd say that other than binding shift forks, the cable shift is superior in speed and feel.
My Opinion after owning both types brand new.

Got it out today, not too hard at all, I'll take pics of the chain arangement i used for those tht need it. I'll be picking up the other lifting eye bracket on my next trip to the bone yard.

Thanks to all,
Josh

Started on my 4th pull today. Actually I did a bit of Bk's car too so I guess 4.5. They only get easier & easier the more you do them and figure out little tricks.

I snapped a picture of where i hooked the chain on the rear bank of the motor. I'll post pics tonight or tomorrow.

Josh

I know you've already got this thing out Pole, & I know i''m late to the discussion, but i've done this 7 or 8 times b/n the 3 tours i've got, all through the bottom. I'm going to add my opinion for the sticky, for the record i've never tried it from the top & probably never will, seems like too much work. BTW I've got 2 CSVT's both EO's both had the 2nd eyelet, my 98 SE doesn't.

When I pull one I drop the radiator just to be safe, remove the strut tower nuts , remove battery box for room to maneuver, pull power steering resevoir off of firewall and tie to engine, fuel lines, throttle cables, various wires, drop exhaust, break mounts & subframe bolts lower struts & all. Then you drag it from under the car & work on the whole assembly where you have room. Sounds alot simpler to me. Of course, you have to bleed your brakes when you put it back together, but thats the only real diff. Remove bolts from front & rear roll restictors & lift engine & trans up slightly & pop axles out, careful not to overextend your axles, 18 degrees I think. I did all of this w/ 2 sets of jackstands, one set is homemade so they're taller, 1 regular floor jack, 1 cherry picker. I can have everything dropped out of this thing in less than 2 hours this way. 1st time I did it it took 6! If i get up to my dads shop I'll take pics of my SE, Its torn down like this right now. I'm not going to say my way is better, but to me it seems easier, & since my tours are falling apart I get alot of practice this way!

How in the world can that be easier than seperating the ball joint, pulling the axles, disconnecting fuel lines and all electrical connections, dropping the rad. (optional) and removing the ypipe. Pulling it out the bottom is just insane to me w/o a lift. You have to realign the subframe, deal with power steering and brakes etc.

Its all a matter of opinion I guess there Todd, but the subframe alignment is not rocket science, & if you remove the power steering resevoir & place it on the engine then you don't have to fool w/ it at all. Brakes are no big deal either. You mean that you've never had to have a car realigned after pulling the ball joints & etc. Not to mention damaging the rubber boots on ball joints & tie rod ends. Pick your poison I guess!