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there should be a lift "eye" behind the rear valve cover,towards the ps res,and ecu wiring harness
"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes.
--93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
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OP
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Originally posted by tour96se:
there should be a lift "eye" behind the rear valve cover,towards the ps res,and ecu wiring harness
Not there man(i've looked with a light already). I have 1, and it's right by the water pump.
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06
99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06
Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle
90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
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Originally posted by pole120:
Originally posted by tour96se:
there should be a lift "eye" behind the rear valve cover,towards the ps res,and ecu wiring harness
Not there man(i've looked with a light already). I have 1, and it's right by the water pump.
hmmm that wierd...i guess you could always wrap a chain around the exh manifold,i had to do that to my svt engine...cause come to think of it,mine didnt have a extra eye either, i took one off of my old duratec and put it on the new block so i could put it back into the car
"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes.
--93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by pole120:
Originally posted by tour96se:
there should be a lift "eye" behind the rear valve cover,towards the ps res,and ecu wiring harness
Not there man(i've looked with a light already). I have 1, and it's right by the water pump.
pre 98's have those mounts...MOST post 98s do not. I qould just get a bolt with and eyelet back there...or bolt with chains...the bolt holding the front head lift point is the same size as the rear...pull it off and go to the hardware...i dont think i need to tell you to get at least 8.8
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Just FYI for you folks pulling engines:
1.) Pulling through the top is superior due to leaving the subframe and rack and pinion alone! No realignment necessary and no broken bolts there! It is also easy because you only need a cherry picker, not a lift.
... you dont need a lift to drop it out the bottom, i used a engine lift to lower it down onto a couple of creepers,made sure the jackstands had the car high enough and than once the engine and subframe were dropped i just pulled the engine/subframe out from underneath the car..pretty easy,instal. was obv the opposite
"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes.
--93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
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Originally posted by pole120:
I already had the suspension ripped out as it's being swapped anyway. Pilled the knucle\axle out whole insted of seperating them for the reasons stated above.
I'm still confused as to where to hook the pas side of the chain ifd someone can give me pointers there.
Josh
Once i get the chanin hooked up i'll snap some pics for refrence since this is in the sticky now 
I pull the upper intake manifold first. Then I support the engine and transmission with two jacks or a jackstand. Both roll restrictors must already be off.
Then I pull the engine support mount (right front) by first unbolting the support arm (4 nuts above PS pump).
Next, I remove the mount from the fender frame rail (three bolts)
Then after I remove the the transmission support mount (3 bolts on fender-frame and 3 nuts on trans top) I get a piece of chain that will connect to one of the studs on the engine mount above the PS pulley, and connect the other end to one of the studs on the trans where the old motor mount was that has enough length to provide a little slack for the hook. Of course it has to be big enough links to fit the studs.
These studs are 12mm and won't bend and it allows the engine to be supported about like it was designed, yet still allow you to rock it as necessary on bringing it out of the bay.
The only thing to watch out for is that the chain will pass right next to the fuel rail and touch it. I will put a little flex on it but won't hurt it as long as you insure it doesn't bind.
I've found this is the best what unless you have some professional hoist chain with all the fancy hookups. If you did, you probably wouldn't be asking right? 
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by tour96se:
Originally posted by warmonger:
Just FYI for you folks pulling engines:
1.) Pulling through the top is superior due to leaving the subframe and rack and pinion alone! No realignment necessary and no broken bolts there! It is also easy because you only need a cherry picker, not a lift.
... you dont need a lift to drop it out the bottom, i used a engine lift to lower it down onto a couple of creepers,made sure the jackstands had the car high enough and than once the engine and subframe were dropped i just pulled the engine/subframe out from underneath the car..pretty easy,instal. was obv the opposite
Well, in my opinion that is just way too hard!!!! What kind of jack system did you use to lift it back up? If you used an above hoist to do it then it really seems like added work.
You do realize you have to realign the car right afterwards right? You have added reconneting the steering system as well? Of course, you don't need to undo the PS system but that is a whole two more minutes and a couple of baggy's with rubber bands.
Granted, if you have a lift for the car, then this method would be downright EASY, and would be the only way I recommended doing it!! But, at home with just jack stands it becomes the less desirable of the two options.
Again, IMHO.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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why would an above jack be any harder...just slid the engine under the car with the subframe..drop. the chain into the engine bay and hoist it back up...really easy,and as far as the steering its only one bolt on the bottom of the colum,inside the car..i guess i should try doing it from the top this summer when i put the three liter in...does anyone have any suggestions for getting the shift rods discon. from a ten year old tranny?
"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes.
--93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
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For the rod shift you need a lot of  + 
3.0 14.392@97.237 2.302 60ft
OEM 4-bolt LCA's $105 each
Watch me go
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CEG\'er
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Originally posted by 96BlackSE:
For the rod shift you need a lot of
+
Yes, that part is certinly a pain.
96 LX 3.0L MTX - Black/Tan
K&N; 12lb F/W & uprated clutch
2.5" Pipe; SVT bits; Mystery Mod; Pull-tie Mod;
UN-tuned Mod; 3rd Gear Synro-Crunch Mod
280K on the Shell, and 40ish on the Motor... 1/4 mile??
Yeah, it's a fun daily driver...
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