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Josh just use the axle puller i made. Don't even waste your time with the pickle fork. And if you really want to pull the axles out all you need is a big piece of brass to knock them out of the hub.


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Originally posted by Thinkmoto:
Josh just use the axle puller i made. Don't even waste your time with the pickle fork. And if you really want to pull the axles out all you need is a big piece of brass to knock them out of the hub.




I've pulled about 4-5 duratecs...the pickle fork is the easiest flippin way to get the axles out...


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Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoShoĆ¢ā??Ā¢:

I've pulled about 4-5 duratecs...the pickle fork is the easiest flippin way to get the axles out...




Your memory is shot after that many? LOL


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Originally posted by Ray:
Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoShoĆ¢ā??Ā¢:

I've pulled about 4-5 duratecs...the pickle fork is the easiest flippin way to get the axles out...




Your memory is shot after that many? LOL




It depends on what you define...pulling...sometimes I was there from start to finish...other times I wasn't.


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Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoShoĆ¢ā??Ā¢:
Originally posted by Thinkmoto:
Josh just use the axle puller i made. Don't even waste your time with the pickle fork. And if you really want to pull the axles out all you need is a big piece of brass to knock them out of the hub.




I've pulled about 4-5 duratecs...the pickle fork is the easiest flippin way to get the axles out...




I'm at about 3 and i made a slide hammer attachment just like the ford tool. One good whack and the axle is out. I did the pickle fork dance it sucks just like the pry bar suggestions eveyone gave me. To each his own..... but what do I know I'm an ass.


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Originally posted by Thinkmoto:
i made a slide hammer attachment just like the ford tool. One good whack and the axle is out.




And it works SWEET, one hit with the slid hammer and they're out, great piece.

All in all the process of prepping the motor to come out(won't actually pull it till next saturday) took about 7 hrs working by myself and making 2-1/2 hr runs to the part store for tools. all the suggestions worked great, the tool for the fuel lines was definitly a help. I did realize while working that there are some steps on the ford CD that just plain aren't necessary, and some that need some more detail.

When Demon said difficulty was "Medium" he wasn't kidding, not bad at all.

I do have one question remaining, on my car (99) there is only one bracket for a hoist chain, the ford CD shows a tool to use for the 2nd point, but i

a. don't have the tool and
b. can't tell on the pucture where it's even suposed to go

If someone can post pics of the right way to get this thing in the air it would be greatly appreciated. Thaks for the help guys.

Josh


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Just FYI for you folks pulling engines:

1.) Pulling through the top is superior due to leaving the subframe and rack and pinion alone! No realignment necessary and no broken bolts there! It is also easy because you only need a cherry picker, not a lift.

2.) When pulling the axles, if you have original axles and nuts then it might be simpler to leave the axles in the hubs.
All you do is pop the axle loose at the transmission as is stated above...use your method. Then, unbolt the lower controll arm at the ball joint from the spindle. Notice the brake caliper is removed and hung from the fenderwell.
Unbolt and pop loose the tie rod. Use a pry bar and hit the side of the joint and it will pop right out easy with no boot damage.
Finally, if you have an impact wrench, unbolt the top strut bolt from the tower with an 18mm socket. Then just lift the whole strut and axle assembly right out and lay it on the ground. Now you have simplified your work, prevented having to deal with axle nuts and the problems associated with having your wheel bearings go bad later due to bad preload on the wheel bearings when you pull the axles, AND made a whole lot more room to work on everything!
With practice, you can have both axle/strut assemblies off in 30 minutes and out of the way if you already have it jacked up and the wheels off.
Oh, then you can wire tie the brake caliper to the lower control arm so it doesn't continue to pull on the rubber hose.



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I did it the same way Tom mentioned. There is no point in tearing apart the axles and disrupting the preload on the bearings. This way is a bit quicker as well since you have to pop the axles out anyway. Plus you do not have to buy more parts this way. (2 new $5 nuts )


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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
I did it the same way Tom mentioned. There is no point in tearing apart the axles and disrupting the preload on the bearings. This way is a bit quicker as well since you have to pop the axles out anyway. Plus you do not have to buy more parts this way. (2 new $5 nuts )



Yeah i told Josh just to leave the axles in no use in removing stuff that doesn't need to be removed or replaced. Glad to hear the puller worked sweet for you. It was worth the whole 5 minutes at work making it


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I already had the suspension ripped out as it's being swapped anyway. Pilled the knucle\axle out whole insted of seperating them for the reasons stated above.

I'm still confused as to where to hook the pas side of the chain ifd someone can give me pointers there.

Josh

Once i get the chanin hooked up i'll snap some pics for refrence since this is in the sticky now


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