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Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by giddyup306:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:


the 3L doesn't use the IMRC.




My 96 3l had IMRC.


Don't be afraid of an older engine. Especially if you don't mind doing some extra work..... Also I know for a fact that the 96 engine WILL work I have mine bolted together as we speak.. All you have to do is modify the bellhousing a bit. Use the tour oil pan, notch the block (just barely 1/4"), and drill and tap another hole under the starter! That's it!!! The rest of the std tour parts should bolt up (but you will have to use the tours heads)...





Oh yeah!! You are correct bout that extra notch for the tip of the starter bendix. lol it has been 5+ years for me so I do tend to forget going that far back.
But from everyting you've said it is the same as I remember it.
Not too hard is it?



No it is not.

kscontourkid,

Feel free to PM me if you need any more info. I bet if you'd ask Tom nicely (warmonger), he'd help ya as well.

Take her easy. If she's easy take her twice.


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Hey, have you got that thing bolted back together and in the car?
Are you driving it yet?
I can't wait to hear that its running and eventually see a baseline dyno of it.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by giddyup306:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:


the 3L doesn't use the IMRC.




My 96 3l had IMRC.


Don't be afraid of an older engine. Especially if you don't mind doing some extra work..... Also I know for a fact that the 96 engine WILL work I have mine bolted together as we speak.. All you have to do is modify the bellhousing a bit. Use the tour oil pan, notch the block (just barely 1/4"), and drill and tap another hole under the starter! That's it!!! The rest of the std tour parts should bolt up (but you will have to use the tours heads)...




I stand corrected. I didn't know anyone was running a 3L with their IMRC still hooked up. Nice to see something different.


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Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Originally posted by giddyup306:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:


the 3L doesn't use the IMRC.




My 96 3l had IMRC.


Don't be afraid of an older engine. Especially if you don't mind doing some extra work..... Also I know for a fact that the 96 engine WILL work I have mine bolted together as we speak.. All you have to do is modify the bellhousing a bit. Use the tour oil pan, notch the block (just barely 1/4"), and drill and tap another hole under the starter! That's it!!! The rest of the std tour parts should bolt up (but you will have to use the tours heads)...




I stand corrected. I didn't know anyone was running a 3L with their IMRC still hooked up. Nice to see something different.




What??? You haven't been reading anything posted by me then.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Hey, have you got that thing bolted back together and in the car?
Are you driving it yet?
I can't wait to hear that its running and eventually see a baseline dyno of it.





Tom,

Well I've run into a problem. I'm waiting on the heads. My buddy needs a 1/4" cutter to cut the valve seats. The smallest he has is a 5/16". Hopefully the toolmaker will have the tool done this week... I hope that it is done by the end of the month (far after my target period.....waddayado). I won't have dynos till this summer so I guess it won't really matter.

FWIW I used the Ford way of cleaning the block. Nothing but the orange sented cleaner and a plastic scraper......


You'll be the first to know.



This will lay down 260 at the wheels right. Untunded. j/k


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hey guys i hate to be the bearer of bad and unfortunate news but i ended up getting a 2.5L it was $125 in damn good condition and i couldnt find a 3L soon enough for a decent price. so i will bid the fairwell and maybe i will come back to it in the future when i have more money. now for anyone who wants to give a kid some power making pointers for a 2.5L i will open a thread in the 2.5L section. and one more question for you guys who may not have used your svt cams im looking for a set to put in my new engine thanks guys for all your help peace.

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If you think you can make 200whp from a 2.5L - you're dreaming; I'll set you straight up front.


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125$ is a great deal for a 2.5 litre...but you are gonna lose your azz building up an inferior motor


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It can be done, but it will definitely cost you:

11.5+:1 CR pistons = $700 minimum (get revised ring lands)
Headers = $350-$650 (used vs. new)
Optimized exhaust = $400+
Rod Bearings = $40
Rod Bolts = $15
Rebuild Gaskets, Seals & Fluids = $400-$500
Optimized Dyno Tune (DO NOT go mail order, dyno needed here) = $600-$1,000

Don't forget a Torsen or Quaife + install = $1,200 minimum

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Originally posted by Stazi:
If you think you can make 200whp from a 2.5L - you're dreaming; I'll set you straight up front.



im not exactly looking for something super this is my first engine rebuild so i dont expect it to be a race engine i just have to use what i have and make the best out of it. id just like to at least get it up to around svt spec or so id like to get 3L power but like MapOfTaziFoSho said i am playing with an inferior engine. i am already regretting my dicision. this is just going to be shall we call it a lesson in rebuilding and minor tuning. i still have advanced engine rebuild to go through and then performance tuning. so that is 2 opportunities to drop in a 3L. i wouldnt want to Fcuk up a good engine. just curiously how much power can i expect from the 2.5L 160-170whp? little less? this is also my car to get me through college so having a "new" engine in it at all will help. come the end of college i will buy a new car and garage the tour for serious work. forced induction? so that is my placing at the moment unfortunate but at least im not rebuilding some POS 4-banger

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