Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance 1999 SE exhaust

I am posting this question, I never truly found what I was after, but recent events with my '99 SE have prompted me to look at simple upgrades.
1999 SE V6 automatic
No mods currentally asside from being somewhat riced out, wife wrecked my car, I put a '98 SVT front clip on my SE, I got a good deal, same color. Sue me, it saved me from having to paint it.
Anyways...I have plugged up precats on my Contour, out of warranty, and despite many attempts to shut off the CEL, I gave up, and have just been driving the thing.
My Contour is at roughly 94k, and still runs flat out great.
No issues, mileage is always around 270 a tank.
Being I am an old school knuckle dragger mechanic, I hate stuff with EFI and computers. I'm used to a good set of headers, a dual exhaust system with decent mufflers, a 4 barrel carb and intake, and depending on what it is, maybe a ignition upgrade, or working with the Ford Duraspark stuff. Think 351c/351w/302, etc. I am used to dealing with pickups, Torinos, and an occasional Mercury or Mustang.
I can't seem to get a straight answer from those I have spoken to.
For now, I want to know if putting a true dual exhaust system, a pair of good mufflers {or possibly Summit Racing flowmaster knock offs} with a set of MSDS headers would be a worth while thing?
I had considered completely removing the converters and running MILs, but I would probably be installing a pair of hi-flow cats, welding in O2 sensor bungs to keep the pcm in the loop. Where I live, no emissions testing.
I also need an answer if removing the flexible section is ok, I don't recall if these are an absolute requirement. I don't remember how much these engines move, if much.
If the plan I have is ok, what is the max diameter that would be considered ok to use; 2", 2-1/4"? {this is assuming I am doing a dual, and not single pipe.}
Was told that the duratec needs a certain amount of backpressure or it could damage the valvetrain...never heard of that problem before.
I do not plan on any hardcore upgrades {i.e. forced induction, intake is doubtful, probably will not bother with any electronics swaps. Just looking to upgrade the exhaust for now...
Thanks for the help, and am paitentally waiting for the troutslaps.
Feel free to PM me.
Drew

If you have the money for that setup do it otherwise just gut the precats and slap on some new mufflers. Probably a minimal gain but at least u wont have a CEL. Also get some MIL eliminators for the CEL to go off.

No need for any troutslaps. Your post is well thought out and detailed.

At 7-years old and 94k, how much longer do you plan to keep the car?

=Option 1 (inexpensive way)=
1. Gut the pre-cats on the car
2. Keep an eye out for an SVT exhaust locally - I gave mine away. You can get them cheap.
3. Replace resonator on SVT exhaust with a nice Magnaflow
4. Optimize y-pipe
5. Optimize TB
6. K&N intake

Total cost: $200 - $350

This will increase your HP and sound.

=Option 2 (expensive way)=
1. replace manifolds with MSDS
2. true duals (2")
3. Optimize TB
6. K&N intake

Total cost: $400 - $1000+

=Other adds=
SVT LIM
SVT UIM
SVT TB


The ranges depend on how much (if any) you would pay for labor.

HTH

I seen how the pics show to optimize Y-pipes BUT how hard is it actually to do?? I am nervous to try it on my own.

To be realistic, I plan on running it into the ground. The engine is about due for service, such as the timing chain around 100k;I also plan on replacing the waterpump at that time as just in case measure. Running the original. Assuming the trans does not grenade, I plan on running it atleast 2-4 more years. Trade off is no car payment, and super high plate fees and taxes.
I got the mass air flow piece off the svt front clip, along with the K&N filter and ram intake.
I have a spare set of used manifolds, but I would just as well put headers on if I was going that far to gut the converters. As far as a used exhaust, I would rather replace than install used.
I can get a system bent reasonably by a local shop, $150-$160 for heavy gauge aluminumized steel, plus the mufflers and converters for around another $150. I was going to go through summit racing, as they have a flowmaster universal ufit kit, for $160 for a 2-1/4" that would give me all the pipe I need, I would fab my hangers from new replacement OEM hangers. I was looking at mufflers, and I saw a dual inlet/outlet that I thought would work well, unless I tuck the mufflers out back under the trunk.
I would be doing all the work myself, unless I farm it to the shop for just the exhaust work.
I've done my share of stuff, and despite the tight bay, I've worked on worse.
Asside from the exhaust, about the only other major upgrade I want is larger front brakes. I put tires on last summer, so no new rims, etc until those are bald.
Thanks for the advice.

You can leave the manifolds on the car and gut them. Will save yourself a good bit of labor.

DO NOT REPLACE THE TIMING CHAINS! It is unnecessary!

The chains and sprockets are much better designed than on that old iron. You also have chain tensioners that are hydraulically controlled to take up any slight wear so that it soesn't allow the slop to agrivate chain and sprocket wear.

It truly is a thing of the past. I have 213,000 miles on mine and no evidence of chain wear. Trust us, you don't need to worry about it. Timing chain problems on this engine are extremely rare.