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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 367
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 367 |
yep, have it take another 90 into the fender area then heat wrap it.
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 84
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 84 |
You all are probably right about the intake setup, thanks for the constructive input.
But I have digressed too much already. This was supposed to be a battery relocation thread! I'll have more pics after the weekend when more hardware comes in...
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 710
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 710 |
Looks like your battery/fuse trays are different than mine. Mine is a 2 part, with the battery tray attaching to the fuse tray, then bolting to the car. When I relocate mine, I'm planning on cutting off the battery tray portion from the fuse tray, and moving it over and bolting it down where the battery tray was bolted. That will give me lots of room to cut a hole for the intake ducting. If the bolt holes are in the same location, you might be able to just pick up the fusebox tray.
morbid
2000 Contour SVT (black)
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,854
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,854 |
wtf!? the battery bracket i pulled out of my car was cheap plastic!
1999 Silver Frost SVT
#609 of 2760
Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,140
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,140 |
Originally posted by KingpinSVT:
Yes you need a fuse or circuit breaker, at 150 amps. You also will need a distrabution block under the hood to connect the old wires to the new one.
A few notes on battery relocation:
First off, I'm not sure I'd do it again. By the time I paid for cable, distribution blocks, and stuff to mount the battery securely, it was getting expensive. Paying the extra money for a lightweight battery makes a lot of sense. However, as for the argument that the wiring is as heavy as the weight savings: I ran ~20 total feet of 4ga copper and it was no heavier than the stuff I was able to strip from under the hood. I also came up with a really nice, easy, elegant, and lightweight yet solid way to mount the battery in the trunk, so overall I feel good about the project.
But, like I said, I'm not sold on the idea: my car still weighs the same as before. Losing the weight for good would have been better. I also moved the weight farther from the center of the car, meaning it has MORE polar momentum, which kinda sucks. I'm thinking about getting a lightweight battery to put back there, and I think that's the ticket: relocate and lighten. But, another thought: put the battery right up againt the back seat. It may fit in the rear corner nicely, and it affects the weight balance more, but putting it closer to the center of the car is going to reduce your polar moment, which is very key in making a nimble car.
I ran one 4ga power wire and hooked it up with a distribution block to the hot stuff under the hood. Then I used two sheet metal screws - big ones - to bolt down the ground wires under the hood. I scraped the metal clean first, of course. I ran two grounds off the battery, one to the spare tire well, and one to some nice thick metal under the rear seat. I ran a fuse as well, but it's sort of a dumb thing: 150 amps of current is more than enough to eff something up seriously, and in order for the fuse to blow, you'd need a dead short, which isn't going to happen by accident. It's not a bad idea just in case, but it's also not a very good safeguard. With some high-po alternators, you might blow a 200A fuse just starting the car!
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 710
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 710 |
When I'm ready to do this, I'll wait for the next local "weigh day" so I can mess around with the placement while on corner weights. Guessing from my last weigh-in, if I move the battery to the rear passenger side, my cross weights should be nearly identical.
morbid
2000 Contour SVT (black)
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 67
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 67 |
sorry to revive a "dead" thread but how many amp fuse should be use?? that is about the last question i have before i do my relocation
00 Contour SVT Black
#557 of 2150
Fabricated Nov 24 1999
Currently unmoded
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,140
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,140 |
150 works for me. I blew a 100 cranking the car.
Really, a fuse is dumb because pretty much anything bad that can happen (accidental shorts) won't be a great connection, so they won't pull 150 amps, and won't blow the fuse. But, there is always that one time where it gets clamped but good and a fuse would have helped, and they're cheap...
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