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Joined: Mar 2003
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
Originally posted by Geddup Noise:
Then the shop, after running the analysis, told me it was the catalytic converter. so i'm not exactly sure if it is the main cat or the precats that are the issue here.
The main cat is not monitored, so the pre-cats are indicated. As Big Jim said, other things can cause this code.
If I was spending the money, here is what I would do:
1. Clean the Throttle Body (TB) and be certain to clear those passages behind the TB gasket. They get gunked up really bad. Clean the throttle plate while there.
2. Do an upper intake cleaning without removing the UIM. Berryman B-12 has been known to 'scrub' the precats a bit & in at least one case I read in these boards the P0420 code went away.
3. If when you do the TB cleaning the EGR passages are gunked up and you have a silvery metal body DPFE, swap it out for a new black plastic body DPFE. Under $40 and and easy job. Two bolts, one electrical connector, & two vac hoses.
Once those are done, reset your PCM & the code may not return. If it does return, then it's time to consider pre-cats.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,345
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
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Originally posted by TourDeForce:
....Once those are done, reset your PCM & the code may not return. If it does return, then it's time to consider pre-cats.
... or mileliminators for $30. www.mileliminators.com
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
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Posts: 7,100 |
Originally posted by Tony2005:
... or mileliminators for $30. www.mileliminators.com
Or build them for $3-5...
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by Ray:
Or build them for $3-5...
explain?
99 V6SE Sport ATX
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
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Simple circuits..
a cap and a resistor, IIRC? two components on a small breadboard (the square kind made for an IC chip is perfect for two of them)
toss the components on there and solder them in, wrap in heat-shrink and you are done.
the schematic is on here, if you look for how to make them
EDIT: looking at the schematic I have saved and its:
a 1MEGA Ohm resistor (1/4 or 1/2 W) and a 1 microfarad capacitor.
The resistor is soldered in series with the grey wire (between the O2 sensor and the connector that plugs in to the car)
the cap is soldered in parallel with the grey wire and black wire) on the connector side of the circuit, at the same location, between the sensor and the connector.
Last edited by Ray; 01/12/06 02:40 AM.
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
Originally posted by Ray:
Simple circuits..
a cap and a resistor, IIRC? two components on a small breadboard (the square kind made for an IC chip is perfect for two of them)
toss the components on there and solder them in, wrap in heat-shrink and you are done.
the schematic is on here, if you look for how to make them
EDIT: looking at the schematic I have saved and its:
a 1MEGA Ohm resistor (1/4 or 1/2 W) and a 1 microfarad capacitor.
The resistor is soldered in series with the grey wire (between the O2 sensor and the connector that plugs in to the car)
the cap is soldered in parallel with the grey wire and black wire) on the connector side of the circuit, at the same location, between the sensor and the connector.
You really don't even need the board, just solder in the components and electrically isolate them with some RTV or sup'm. Once dry wrap them up in a shrink wrap thingy. Real neat package just like from Pony Express.
Another method used with some success is to mount the O2s in a pair of tall spark plug anti-foulers that have been drilled out to accomodate the sensor. No electrical work.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 710
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 710 |
I didn't use the breadboard. I was thinking about housing them in inline fuse holders, but ended up just stagering the res/cap with everything individualy shrink wrapped. I suck at soldering... but I still managed to make a functional set. Piece of cake 
morbid
2000 Contour SVT (black)
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Posts: 6
Newbie
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Newbie
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BigJim suggested earlier:
With that code, I would start by pulling the throttle body and cleaning the EGR passages behind it.
I did the searches and followed the suggested links and chased on down to my usual parts staore to get some B 12. The guy freaked out when I said I was going to use the aerosol B 12 on the intake manifold - he believes the inatke manifild is made of plastic and B 12 will melt it. Also stated that B 12 in liquid form used to be sold in CA but was stopped recently due to some emissions control/s ...
My sense is that as described within the cleaning process on this site NO plastic is invlved.
I'm checking in here as a noobie, trying to learn from you all rather than learn the hard way .. thanks!
Tony
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Joined: Mar 2003
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That's why there's CEG. 'Cause parts guys & dealer grease monkeys don't know JACK about our cars.
The B-12 will be fine for the intake - which is aluminum by the way, not plastic. All you may need is a $4 TB gasket, but I never had to install one as it wasn't damaged upon removal. Soon as you pull the TB off & peel the gasket off the intake, you'll see the gunked up passages. Enjoy.
NOTE:
When you re-install the TB, be sure to snug the bolts up by hand first & gradually tighten them evenly. I've heard of people torquing down the bolts one at a time then complaining about air leaks. Just tighten the bolts gradually so the TB stays relatively flush against the UIM flange as you tighten. I would suggest two 1/4 turns on each bolt in an X pattern until tight. And don't over tighten is a good habit to get into. The head, block, and UIM/LIM are aluminum & will strip out more easily than iron pieces, so no gorilla man on the engine please. Common sense really.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Posts: 4,693
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by tkortens:
BigJim suggested earlier:
With that code, I would start by pulling the throttle body and cleaning the EGR passages behind it.
I did the searches and followed the suggested links and chased on down to my usual parts staore to get some B 12. The guy freaked out when I said I was going to use the aerosol B 12 on the intake manifold - he believes the inatke manifild is made of plastic and B 12 will melt it. Also stated that B 12 in liquid form used to be sold in CA but was stopped recently due to some emissions control/s ...
My sense is that as described within the cleaning process on this site NO plastic is invlved.
I'm checking in here as a noobie, trying to learn from you all rather than learn the hard way .. thanks!
Tony
This guy is trying to give you a higher education.
BS -- you know what that means.
MS -- more of the same.
PhD -- piled higher and deeper.
In other words he is full of BS. Berryman's was still on the shelf last time I was in a parts store two weeks ago.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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