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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015 |
Yes - that is smart. Change the oil at the end of the season and you're good to go when you roll 'er out in the Spring.
What is stupid is those fools that change their oil at the end of winter, then again when they bring it back out when all it did was sit there. Total waste of money and oil.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 540
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 540 |
Politely I will respond to your reply. The oil in a gas or diesel engine is not used any differently. They both perform the SAME tasks: lubrication, heat rejection, anti-rust, etc. True, the additive packages are different. Heavy duty diesel engine oil is designed for longer intervals between drains, along with some other changes that are not pertinent to this discussion. The fact of the matter is: combustion byproducts (regardless of the fuel) include acids. Let me reiterate, regardless of fuel type combustion byproducts include acids. One of the properties of engine oil is to neutralize acids over time (read up on TBN and TBA). As the service life of the oil increases it loses it's ability to neutralize. Let it go too far and the acids can (and do) damage. No, nothing like burning a hole through your block in a weeks time. It is long term wear items that suffer. If you want to put 2-cycle oil in your car, go right ahead. I do not put diesel oil in my car. However, the next time you look at a bottle of Mobil 1, look for the latest API deisgnation and notice - right next to the SJ (or whatever the latest designation is) you will also see a C* designation for diesel (compression) engines. Oh, but according to you, that can't be!
'98 SVT Red/midnight blue - a few mods
E0 wheels for sale - PM me
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 540
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 540 |
Exactly! Sorry to have not explained my position better earlier. No, I don't change it at the end of the year and then 3 months later at the start of next season w/o running the car.
'98 SVT Red/midnight blue - a few mods
E0 wheels for sale - PM me
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,489
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,489 |
1998 T-Red CSVT 3.0L
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 17,248
CEG road warrior
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CEG road warrior
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 17,248 |
From my Evo's manual (Evo requires Mobil 1 stock): 3750 under hard use 5000 normal use
Hector
2003 Rally Red Mitsubishi Evolution VIII
257HP/259TQ
2005 Lapis Blue Mazda 6s
RET: 00 Cabernet Red Ford Contour Zetec ATX SUPERCHARGED
160HP/141TQ
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,659
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,659 |
Originally posted by Hdbngr8: Get an oil analysis - that can tell you with better precision how far you can go.
Where do you guys/gals go to get an oil analysis??
"Do what you like, Because you have to drive it!"-Me
99 Contour LX
95 Mustang GT Convertible
97 Z24 Cavalier
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,322
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,322 |
1999 Toreador Red SVT, DOB 4/22/99, 2005 Of 2760.
"Many posted questions are answered by farm boys"
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,141
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,141 |
Originally posted by Marky: Blackstone Lab.
i sent my first mobil one sample in at 140k and i can now go 6k before i need a change.
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06
99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06
Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle
90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693 |
Originally posted by Hdbngr8: Politely I will respond to your reply. The oil in a gas or diesel engine is not used any differently. They both perform the SAME tasks: lubrication, heat rejection, anti-rust, etc. True, the additive packages are different. Heavy duty diesel engine oil is designed for longer intervals between drains, along with some other changes that are not pertinent to this discussion. The fact of the matter is: combustion byproducts (regardless of the fuel) include acids. Let me reiterate, regardless of fuel type combustion byproducts include acids. One of the properties of engine oil is to neutralize acids over time (read up on TBN and TBA). As the service life of the oil increases it loses it's ability to neutralize. Let it go too far and the acids can (and do) damage. No, nothing like burning a hole through your block in a weeks time. It is long term wear items that suffer.
If you want to put 2-cycle oil in your car, go right ahead. I do not put diesel oil in my car. However, the next time you look at a bottle of Mobil 1, look for the latest API deisgnation and notice - right next to the SJ (or whatever the latest designation is) you will also see a C* designation for diesel (compression) engines. Oh, but according to you, that can't be!
This is basically correct. Even with little or no sulpher in the fuel (or oil), there is still a lot of acid formed from combustion. This was discovered in the 40's and was the basis for Shell oil company advertising oil with the "X" factor which kept
You missed slightly on the methods of determining the base or acid level in the oil though. TBN is total base number. A high number here shows the base reserve, or is an indication of how much more acid it can handle. The oposite side of this is TAN or total acid number (not TAB).
TBN is generally accepted as the most reliable way to tell if the additives in the oil are depleted. Although rare, it is possible to have a high TBN and still have some of the additives depleted. This is usually only an issue on extremely long oil change intervals.
On the issue of oil quality. The difference in performance between today's conventional oils (dino oil) and synthetic oil is becoming very narrow. The better of today's dino oils are very close in performance to today's synthetic oils. You can easily go 5,000 miles between oil changes on any GF-4 SM rated dino oil except under the most severe usage. And I mean the most severe, not just what most people call "severe duty" that just about defines nearly every driver. It has shifted to the point that unless the car is used in police pursuit or race track use, 5,000 miles can easily be met.
What I'm saying is that today's dino oils are very nearly synthetic oils. The base oil blending stocks are almost equilivent. In fact, some so called synthetics use the same base oil blending stocks as some dino oils (Castrol Syntec and Mobil 5000).
Prior to the latest API certification of SM, I changed the dino oil in my car every 3,000 miles. Before API changed to SM, I changed to synthetic and have been changing it every 5,000 miles. I'm going to switch back to dino oil or possibly move to dino/synthetic blend (Mobil 7500) and stay with the 5,000 mile interval.
Mobil has provided some guidelines. First, they say that if the car is still in warranty, do not exceed the manufactures oil change interval no matter which oil you use. Then they say Mobil 5000 = 5000 miles, Mobil 7500 = 7500 miles, Mobil 1 = 10,000 miles, Mobil 1 EP = 15,000 miles.
An ocassional oil analysis will also help.
If you really want to become more familiar with what is going on in the lubrication industry, hang out for a while at www.bobistheoilguy.com
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 540
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
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Posts: 540 |
Originally posted by Big Jim: You missed slightly on the methods of determining the base or acid level in the oil though. TBN is total base number. A high number here shows the base reserve, or is an indication of how much more acid it can handle. The oposite side of this is TAN or total acid number (not TAB).
Darn it! You caught it before I could correct it
'98 SVT Red/midnight blue - a few mods
E0 wheels for sale - PM me
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