Good luck on that one Pete
On a side note, I detailed my father-in-laws Dads 97' Lincoln Town car yesterday, its white w/o the faux convertable top, so it was alot of work to say the least (save the PC comments, point is well taken already
) Anyways, I had him run it through the carwash before he came over, seeing that its too damn cold to hand wash it and we got started. I began with the normal clay barring. Mind you, when I clay, I go over the area with more than one swipe, I probably over due it but thats ok, better to be safe than sorry. After I did just the hood my bright yellow clay bar was dark maize
I couldn't believe my eyes and it just goes to show you guys how important the clay bar is to the process
Anyways, after clayying, I bust out the Klasse AIO and heres the amazing part! By the time I got done doing the hood, front fender and roof, the yellow pad was dirty, yeah, dirty, WTF
The color white must have some incredible dirt holding properties
I ended up switching the pad over and finishing it up. So now I'm thinking, what next with the Klasse SG, but my fear didn't rear its head, it went on fine w/o any dirt coming out of the paint! I finished with S100 and the car looked great
I can see the PC at the end of the tunnel, but will probably only use it to get out the "tough stuff", but who knows. I don't really see the need to use it to remove wax and BTW, when you use a series of polishes like Griots offers for their PC, do you really need to clay before or after that? The reason I ask is because they (Griots) offer a holder for the PC to put the clay bar, thats NEVER GOING TO HAPPEN with me, no way, no how! The Griots polishing system looks to be pretty thorough, having 3 different polishes for different applications and they cost no more than $12-$15.00 a bottle, I like that and with how little product you need to use with the PC, that too is a bonus. I guess I'll need to invest in some liquid wax when my hard paste runs out if I like the PC that much
