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Joined: Jan 2005
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I did some searching, but I'm not sure what's wrong.
My batt. is coming on...
Car starts fine, seems to be holding charge. Batt. light at first just flickered on at higher rpms, now 150 miles later is flickering almost all the time and stays on a higher rpms.
I had the guy at autozone test the batt. and although it seemed to have 12 volts with the car off, I didn't seem to be putting out more than 12 with the car running, but that was only at idle.
Anyway I'm not sure what to replace but I want to fix it before I drive it more. If anyone could shed some light on this I'd appreciate it! Thanks
-Peter
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
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The main culprits of that light are:
NEVER THE BATTERY.. that light has nothing to do with the battery.
MEGA-FUSE, but would cause the light to be on ALL THE TIME.
Alternator (voltage regulator is on the alternator, and replacing the VR requires ALMOST ASSUREDLY) removing the alternator either way).
Wiring from alternator to chassis, or battery. usually accompanied by flickering interior/exterior lighting.
Car off, 60 secs of headlights on to remove surface charge:
12.0v or higher
car running:
14.0 or close. (up to 14.7ish) some as low as 13.9/8ish
If not higher than the 12, replace the alternator, using the how-to, or pay for it to be done 9but be ready to pay heavily)
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 453
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Originally posted by Ray:
Car off, 60 secs of headlights on to remove surface charge:
12.0v or higher
car running:
14.0 or close. (up to 14.7ish) some as low as 13.9/8ish
If not higher than the 12, replace the alternator, using the how-to, or pay for it to be done 9but be ready to pay heavily)
Thanks for the fast reply!
When I checked it at autozone we did do the head light thing and than check the battery - this was with the car off. The guy didn't say anything so I think my battery charge was normal.
However I did see the voltometer when we tested with the car running, and it was at 12.8 or something, and than switched to no charge. So it seems like the alternator.
I will do the labor myself for sure, but what kind of alt. and how much should I expect to pay? New or rebuilt, or junkyard 
Thanks again!
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015
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Posts: 10,015 |
Put in a guaranteed for life rebuilt unit. Don't be a fool and put in one from a junker cos if it goes too you'll want to eat razor-blades. The alternator replacement is the WORST job on this car!
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 6,791
Hard-core CEG'er
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 6,791 |
Originally posted by Stazi:
Put in a guaranteed for life rebuilt unit. Don't be a fool and put in one from a junker cos if it goes too you'll want to eat razor-blades.
Yuppers, thats what I did. Although I have been through 2 alternators already.
Originally posted by Stazi:
The alternator replacement is the WORST job on this car!
Are you serious? I guess I'm never attempting it then! 
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
Originally posted by Stazi:
Put in a guaranteed for life rebuilt unit. Don't be a fool and put in one from a junker cos if it goes too you'll want to eat razor-blades. The alternator replacement is the WORST job on this car!
Just to qualify that, a close second is the rear upstream O2 sensor.
Anyway, the how-to will be very helpful & save you lots of heartache if you study it in advance. If you're a shade-tree mechanic, you can do this job. If you're a real novice, you might be better off getting some help AND printing out the how-to. Doing it yourself will save you mucho $ - enough to buy the extensions you'll need & then some. 
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Joined: Jan 2005
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I am a shade tree mechanic of sorts, i've done a handful of timing belts and wp's and my oil pan and some other stuff but never an alternator, but I don't expect it to be that bad.
Just out curiousity, is it really that hard? I thought it was bad on a duratec but not on a zetec..? And if there is a how to I'd be glad to take a look at it, but I have a manual so I'll use that too if nothing else.
-Peter
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by 98Ford2L:
I am a shade tree mechanic of sorts, i've done a handful of timing belts and wp's and my oil pan and some other stuff but never an alternator, but I don't expect it to be that bad.
Just out curiousity, is it really that hard? I thought it was bad on a duratec but not on a zetec..? And if there is a how to I'd be glad to take a look at it, but I have a manual so I'll use that too if nothing else.
-Peter
If you have a Zetec, it's not as bad, I think. On the Duratec it's down right infuriating.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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