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OK, so here's my idea. Pull the gear out of the motor and trash the rest of it. Find a socket that just fits over the small end of the gear and use JB Weld to attach it. Glue that assembly to the drive post of the sunroof (at least the ID spline of the gear doesn't strip out). Then drill a hole in the plastic cover/light housing just big enough to allow an extension or speed wrench to fit through. Replace the cover. Now use your speed wrench or ratchet with extension as a manual crank. Just store it in you glove box when not in use. If you're resourceful enough you should be able to find some sort of plastic plug to cover the hole with so that it doesn't look too half-assed. I was thinking of a timing plug cover from a BMW motorcyle would work well. Any other ideas for a plug?

I was going to do this a couple of months ago but was holding out and hoping to find the plastic cover that holds the gear in place and attaches to the motor. Mine shattered when the gear stripped. Since the replacement gears seem to be crap I may give this a try. I know I have a 3/8" drive socket that fits really well over the end of the gear but I'd like to do it with 1/4" drive. I think I'll go to Sears and surf for sockets.

I think this should work pretty well.

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Okay, granted that might work, but i'm not willing to compromise asthetics. I'll think I'll keep looking for that mondeo setup. Or try another route. Thanks though.


00 CSVT Black/Midnight Blue 2.5L DOHC Duratec V6, 200HP, MTX-75 MODs: K&N Filter, SVT ovals, Autometer gauges, PIAA 510's, Alpine S-type FE/Pioneer R, Pioneer Premier Series reciever #603 of 2150 92 Cavalier 1.8L I4 (Beater)
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With a the right plug to cover the hole I don't think the aesthetics would be too bad. The BMW motorcycle timing hole cover would work well as it is soft rubber and tapers down to the edge of the outer diameter so that it is a nearly flush fit. They're like 80 cents at any BMW motorcycle dealer.

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Originally posted by todras:
"Best"? Best build quality yes. Nice it also doesn't have returnless as well. I have to agree with Alias for once. The 5 less hp isn't anything anyone will notice.




+1 i'm also on my original gear with 116k on my EO I also use mine everyday...


#3162 of 6535 98 SVT Silver frost Viper Responder 791 w/ 2way remote start Let the modding begin!
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Are you just trying to make us feel bad? Or maybe you'd like to sell me your motor.

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Mine is still on the original gear,with regular use.(knock on wood)


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Originally posted by bobmin:
Are you just trying to make us feel bad? Or maybe you'd like to sell me your motor.




No SH!T. I don't understand how some people can have no trouble with their assembly while others have nothing but trouble. It just doesn't make any sense.


00 CSVT Black/Midnight Blue 2.5L DOHC Duratec V6, 200HP, MTX-75 MODs: K&N Filter, SVT ovals, Autometer gauges, PIAA 510's, Alpine S-type FE/Pioneer R, Pioneer Premier Series reciever #603 of 2150 92 Cavalier 1.8L I4 (Beater)
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Originally posted by CSVT1214:
I don't get why some strip so easy. I have a E0 and I'm still on my original gear.

And I use my sunroof almost everyday, all year.



At 120k I do the same thing with no problems on my EO


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85,000 on mine and no trouble YET

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I have gone through 2 different sunroof motors on 98 CSVT and the third one is working so far. the problem is heat! i live in sunny Florida and i made the mistake TWICE, by trying to open the sunroof while the car was extremely hot (sitting in the sun). These plastic gears strip very easily, which they are supposed to do in order to protect the motor. the key is to open the sunroof when the temp is moderately cool. i know this sucks because you want to open the dang thing when it is hot. so anyway, its like the plastic impellar water pump situation. who in their right mind would specify a plastic impellar in a water pump? Welcome to the lovely world of Ford.

Michigan climate is relatively cool...

Marty


98 Black Contour SVT, #2386 of 6535 How can you live without CEG?
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