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ok i've desided to tryout this whole dynamat thing. i bought 40 square feet of it yea yea yea i know there are cheaper things out there but the dynamat xtreme is what i'm going to be using.

first question- does anyone have any picture they can post of how they dynamated their trunk to give me a better idea of what i'm doing.

second question- is it nessasary to dynamat every last square inch of my trunk to make it stop rattling so bad. its mainly the license plate because i only have two screws in it at the moment and it rattles very bad i'm going to be installing two more screws tomarrow to help put and end to the license plate rattle.
-license plate has already been dynamated

i have 1 12" alpine type r dual 2 ohm in a ported enclosure running off a crossfire 1000 rms amp @ 1 ohm.

third question was the best thing to do with 40 square feet of dynamat xtreme ? what the best places to put it ?

also should i do the inside of the outer door skin. thats what the tech at jl audio said to do.

i looked around a little bit but couldn't find out what i was looking for.

any help would be great i plan on starting to dynamat the whole trunk tomarrow morning.


-2000 csvt silver frost #1619 -magnaflow 14415 -optimized T/B & y-pipe -superchips xgt1 -75mm proflow maf -K&N RU-3530 -fsvt smart pump # 354Z-9H307-BC -spec stage one, LSD -low-tek,a/f,oil press.,volts -B&M short shifter -17" konig gt-r
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start w/ the trunk lid, I'd take it off, it made it 100000x easier. cut pieces (some use templates, I didn't), and yes, I covered every sqaure inch. as far as the license plate, the two screws on the bottom will deff help, but many on the boards have said to put a piece of dynamat on the back of the actual plate to help with rattling. after the trunk lid, I'd stard around "rattly" places, near the tail lights, wherever you think things rattle. with 40 sq feet, you should be able to cover almost, if not all of the trunk. take out the carpet (held in w/ plastic screws) and do the spare tire well, and the floor. I did the inside of the fenders too, but basically, I wanted to have a huge sheet of silver with no paint visible when I opened my trunk.

a word of warning: if you don't have a trunk key, don't do the trunk lid. after I did it, I can't use my trunk latch to open it because of the added weight.

good luck! and be prepared to get messy from the adhesive, and to ruin a pair of scissors (WD-40 cleans the adhesive off pretty well though)


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thanks for the responce.

i'm a little bumed out i thought it would make a bigger difference.. while it does rattle less now everything else that i have not dynamated now rattles. license plate obviously need more dynamat it still rattles like a [censored]
now the mesh lower grill on the back bumper between the exhaust tips rattles . something like the bumper support inside the bumper rattles and other things as well.

however it does sound much better inside the car. and the rattle while standing outside the car other that the license plate is bearable - spellcheck -

so with the difference it made to the sound of the music inside the car i guess it was kinda worth it.

i did not remove my trunk i was affaid that i wouldn't be able to line it back up when i re installed it. but it wasn't all that hard to do just a lot of time spent laying on my back.

what sucked most of all was trying to track down the problem of why i keeped blowing the # 34 fuse 7.5 amp it was a real pain but it turned out to be the trunk light was touching the dynamat one side of tghe dynamat is metalic and it keeped blowing fuses. but problem solve.

i 'll see if i can get some picture up one day but right now i'm still waiting on my batcap to arrive.

i still have two sheets of dynamat left and plan on doing the front doors with it next weekend.


-2000 csvt silver frost #1619 -magnaflow 14415 -optimized T/B & y-pipe -superchips xgt1 -75mm proflow maf -K&N RU-3530 -fsvt smart pump # 354Z-9H307-BC -spec stage one, LSD -low-tek,a/f,oil press.,volts -B&M short shifter -17" konig gt-r
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car audio: fix one rattle, another arises

getting the trunklid back on isn't as hard as you might think. I did it myself, didn't have anyone else around to hold it up. I did drop it on the rear windshield once though, and for .24 seconds I thought I was about to break it, so after that I was much more careful. it made it possible to get every square cm covered. I found the biggest diff. dynamat made was how much you could hear the bass outside the car.


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Just for fun try wedging a pillow behind the rear bumper plastic but inbetween it and the actually support. Its ghetto but it makes a difference. Dont forget about it up there though


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i have heard that there is some vent that can rattle. that may be what you think is the bumper support rattling. anyone else hear of this?


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Generally speaking, the two vents on the sides of the trunk shouldn't rattle because they have plastic tabs that snap into the sheet metal, and the trunk liner presses up against them. If the vents are loose, then that could also be a water leak source, so removal of the trim snaps to check that out would probably be a good idea.


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